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Description

The 180m high wall across the river on the Eastern side of El Chalten. There are at least 4 long routes here, and many more will go up with time.

Approach

Use the bridge which brings you to the northern end of the wall

Descent notes

Rappel the routes, or if windy there is a walk down track on the north (Fitzroy) side. Walk across the rocky plateau and look out for cairns to get onto a well trodden tack that finishes close to the bridge.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
{FR} 6b ** Across the bridge white pockets Sport 180m, 5

Immediately above the bridge there is a routel that starts on white pockets and goes into a L facing corner and later heads out a large roof. Pitch 1: (6a) Up white wall with multiple large huecos into R leaning corner/ ramp. Climb past first set of anchor bolts to anchors at base of arete. Pitch 2 (crux): Up face and right to arete. Belay on ledge atchain anchor. Pitch 3: (6a) Up arete to open corner, trending left to under roof Pitch 4: 5+Up the right along ledge. Under right side of roof traverse right to belay Pitch 5: (5) Step left into corner and up to anchor. Rappel from here or continue scrambling up and left to plateau and go left to descent gully

2
{FR} 6a * Lo dejamos ahi Trad 170m, 4

Known locally as "the easiest rock climb in El Chalten", at least, it is the easiest multi-pitch. Has been climbed in winter with ice axes and crampons.

From the wooden bridge walk south towards the old orange bridge/flying fox thing. Take first small branch trail you come to, just before the orange flying fox, the track leads to a massive boulder field from significant rockfall, the climb starts just up and right from the debris field.

The climb is recognisable by the large smooth slab comprising the top third which has a right trending diagonal crack with a belay cave half-way.

Apparently no harder than 6a.

To descend, from the final anchor, walk north along the ledge for a few metres to a rap station. It would be awkward to abseil from the final anchor and hit the previous belay due to the diagonal nature of that pitch.

3

Directly opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge. From wooden bridge, walk south ~100m past the old orange bridge structure, then a bit further and head up hill. No obvious track leading to the base in Dec 2016. All belays have rings for abseiling.

6 pitches:

  1. 25m, 5 bolts, Aussie grade 14? Straight up, terrible rock.

  2. 25m, 5 bolts, Aussie grade 13? Trending left around bulge, terrible rock.

  3. 30m, 8 bolts, Aussie grade 16? Easy scramble up and right past 2 or 3 bolts and scree, climb short face (3rd botl on face hidden), then trend left to sloping ledge and belay.

  4. 30m, 12 bolts, Aussie grade 18? Straight up steeep wall, 1st bolt heads left but easier ground right, then right-facing corner and awkward mantle on to sloping ledge, followed by another right-facing corner and mantle.

  5. 15m, 5 bolts, Aussie grade 19? Ridiculous Horizontal traverse.

  6. Crux, 20m, 8 bolts, Aussie grade 21? Straight up, maybe some tat hanging from 2nd bolt to help aid? Then up steep wall with pockets. Terrible rock.

Descent Options:

  1. Walk-off. Still need rope to climb above final anchor, then walk left ~200m to walk-down gully.

  2. Abseil, very awkward to hit 4th belay on abseil due to the horizontal traverse. Then abseil ~53m to 2nd belay and ~40m to ground.

  3. Alternatively, abseil to 5th belay, then ~50m to 1m dirt ledge where you can carefully walk across to 2nd belay. ~40m to the ground from 2nd belay.

4
{FR} 6b The Ivory Tower Sport

Apparently the hardest pitch is 6B.

Climbs the prominent white tower opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge, about ~200m south of the wooden bridge.

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