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Description

A small sector right on the private road with easier routes.

Approach

From main street, walk down "Trevisan" past Chalten Suites and Lunajuim Hotel to cross the river on wodden bridge to Pared de los Condores climbing area. Turn left through gate (sometimes locked) and follow the road for 150 metres. The crag is immediately adjacent to the road on a small dirt terrace. The Hosteria Fitz Roy Inn is directly opposite on the other side of the river.

Descent notes

All routes have lower offs

Routes

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Grade Route
1
{AU} 14 Slab left of main wall 1 Sport 22m, 6

16m up and left of fence post, diagonal staircase up and right past 6 bolts to shared lower-off.

Awkward to abseil and clean the route as it wanders ~8m sideways, easiest for 2nd to top-rope and clean.

2
{AU} 16 Slab left of main wall 2 Sport 22m, 7

Start 8m up and left from fence post at left end of main wall. 7 bolts to shared lower-off, crux is bolt 6 - 7.

3
top rope problem 1 Top rope 18m

Just to the left of the fence posts at overhung corner, only anchor bolts for TR

4
{AU} 18 *** Main Wall Bolted 1 Sport 22m, 10

Start at fence post at left end of main wall. Up past 10 bolts. Crux is getting past the 9th bolt, which is a "spinner" suggesting plenty have fallen there. Previously "Top Rope Problem 2".

5
{AU} 18 * Main Wall Bolted 2 Sport 22m, 9

3m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), starting at a triangular ledge at head height. Up past 9 bolts to lower-offs.

6
{AU} 19 Main Wall Bolted 3 Sport 22m, 9

Start 6m right of fence post (at left end of main wall), just right of low roof at wide crack/chimney. Chimney up to 2nd bolt, crux through overlap to 3rd bolt, then more easily to anchors. Middle-third is sandy with broken rock.

7
{AU} 18 Main Wall Bolted 4 Sport 20m, 9

8m right of fence post (at left end of main wall). Start at dihedral, up and out to 2nd bolt on face, easy slabbing until finish above scoop (protected by 9th bolt). Some say Aussie grade 17.

8
{AU} 17 Main Wall Bolted 5 Sport 15m, 6

Diagonal right crack and ramp. Start 5m right of "Main Wall Bolted 4" past bush and crack/groove.

6 bolts, crux is first 2 bolts with side clings either side. Awkward to clean the route as it wanders ~6m right to shared lower-offs.

9
{AU} 20 * Main Wall Bolted 6 Sport 12m, 6

Start at seam into right leaning flake. Option to lower-off at ~9m, or continue to shared lower-offs 2 bolts higher.

Probably harder start now given the 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base. First bolt is ~5m up.

10
{AU} 19 Main Wall Bolted 7 Sport 13m, 5

At far right of main wall, up slightly overhung hand and finger crack, then left-ish to shared lower-offs.

Probably harder start now given the 2m of dirt erosion at cliff base. First bolt is ~5m up. Black Diamond 0.5 or 0.75 cam useful to protect the heinous start.

11
{AU} 13 Slab right of main wall 1 Sport 15m, 4

Starts just to right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Start up right facing corner past 2 bolts on left wall, then transition to right face past 2 bolts to shared lower-off.

12
{AU} 14 Slab right of main wall 2 Sport 16m, 6

Right of main wall up on 1m dirt ledge. Climb the middle of slab past 6 bolts. Scramble 4m to large ledge and first bolt (redundant) at knee height, then nice side cling moves from bolt 2 to 3. Ezasy to top

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