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description

Directly opposite Hosteria Vertical Lodge. From wooden bridge, walk south ~100m past the old orange bridge structure, then a bit further and head up hill. All belays have rings for abseiling. Rock quality is poor in spots but no worse than any other route on this wall.

6 pitches:

  1. 25m, 5 bolts, Straight up easy slabs

  2. 25m, 5 bolts, Trending left around bulge

  3. 30m, 8 bolts, Easy scramble up and right past 2 or 3 bolts and scree, climb short face (3rd bolt on face hidden), then trend left to sloping ledge and belay.

  4. 30m, 12 bolts, Straight up steep wall, 1st bolt heads left but easier ground right, then right-facing corner and awkward mantle on to sloping ledge, followed by another right-facing corner and mantle.

  5. 15m, 5 bolts, Ridiculous horizontal traverse.

  6. Crux, 20m, 8 bolts, Straight up, then up steep wall with pockets.

Descent Options:

  1. Walk-off. Still need rope to climb above final anchor, then walk left ~200m to walk-down gully.

  2. Abseil, very awkward to hit 4th belay on abseil due to the horizontal traverse. Then abseil ~53m to 2nd belay and ~40m to ground.

  3. Alternatively, abseil to 5th belay, then ~50m to 1m dirt ledge where you can carefully walk across to 2nd belay. ~40m to the ground from 2nd belay.

Route history

Route setter: Juan Manuel Raselli & Roberto Treu

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -49.33150, -72.87843

Grade citation

6b Assigned grade
21 Richard Pattison

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 50 from 3 ratings.

Difficulty - 6b

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

6c+

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Red point 1
Tick 2

Comment keywords

hands feet traverse difficult crux

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Sun 23 Apr
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