South Face Mostly Trad climbing 17 routes in area

A memorable route in a spectacular position with some superb face and crack climbing.

(1) 23m 25: Step left from ledge and head up steepening face past 3 bolts. Go right after 3 bolt to reach crack, and climb crack until 2RBB is reached.

(2) 30m 20: Up face past 5 bolts to ledge. Head right up short corner to 2RBB on ledge.

(3) 27m 15: Step 2m left of belay and climb slab past 3 bolts and belay at boulders.

Starts at DBB between the first pitch of Mist-Defied and 2nd Pitch of Long Time Coming. Sustained face climbing past 4 bolts to overlap and then up right corner to DBB at ledge.

First ascentionist is not known. No red tape on the bolts were present as of 11 Nov 2018.

From 2RBB on left edge of ledge, abseil slightly rightwards, heading into the obvious wide crack.

(1) 33m 18: Climb crack up to the left leading bongo flake. Straight up face from here past a FH to ledge and 2RBB.

(2) 27m 15: Head left up slabs as for Long Time Coming.

(1) 30m 20: Climb cracks as for Mist-Defied, but instead of following flake, head straight up to end of crack. Continue on face past 2 FH to ledge and belay.

(2) 27m 15: Same as Long Time Coming.

Excellent face climbing up the centre of the South Face.

(1) 10m 21: Move right from 2RBB to climb feature passing 2 bolts to ledge. Walk a few meters right to 2RBB.

(2) 27m 25: The amazing face passing 6 RBs, to an unlikely crux move to reach short cracks. Follow these rightwards to belay in base of crack for Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity.

(3) + (4): same as Mist-Defied and Mist Opportunity

A fantastic route with a mix of face and crack climbing.

(1) 30m 21: Balancy moves past first bolt to gain crack. Continue up crack until its end and clip bolt on face above and traverse left to another bolt. Gain scoop and run it out up the left trending, juggy weakness to RB and past final RB to ledge.

(2) 25m 15: Walk left on ledge and climb out as for Long Time Coming.

See links for description:

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2008/10/Transformer-Route-Topo.pdf

https://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/transformer-at-peak-head/

Bold line up middle of South Face. Start on left side of Stirling Terrace at shallow corner/crack about 10m left of obvious crack of On the Lee Side.

Pitch 1 (20) 24m: Climb shalllow crack/corner to small ledge then left across face to a thin crack and belay bellow arrowhead.

Pitch 2 (21) 40m: From arrowhead climb difficult moves to jugs and continue up corner and crack (watch for loose block around halfway). Belay in double cracks.

Pitch 3 (17) 38m: Continue for 20m to good ledge and finish on right side of corner with tree belay.

Pitch 1 (16) 30m: Up the crack to awkward ramp, over bulge to belay in groove.

Pitch 2 (15) 40m: Up groove into crack on right whaere flared chimney begins. Belay on bushy ledge

Pitch 3 (17) 40m: Head straight up wall climbing thin cracks. At ledge, step right to avoid blank groove. Clip bolt and continue up rounded holds and back left into groove to good cams. Continue to climb and exit left to long runout to tree belay.

(1) 40m 22: Start up crack as for Farewell to Arms, but at 4m step left onto face and bolt. Follow up to ledge and go left for 2m to vertical crack and good pro. Past great holds past 2 bolts and overlap. Blast up face past 7 bolts and 2RBB.

(2) 20m (19): Head up finger crack and right trending right crack to ledge and steep layback crack to another large ledge and 2RBB.

(3) 35m 23: Climb crack for On the Lee Side Direct until you can traverse left and clip bolt. Continue up past 3 bolts and run it out to alcove and belay.

Starts about 15-20m right of Farewell to Arms.

(1) 30m 23: Hard to reach first bolt, the move delicately diagonally right to reach welcome second bolt.Continue up line of bolts, using small cam/nut between 2nd and 3rd bolt, to reach 2RBB.

(2) 40m 21: Step left from belay and climb slab, passing 6 bolts and run out to ledge. Traverse left and climb short crack and reach large vegetated ledge and 2RBB.

(3) 30m 23: Climb steep corner crack and move right over bulge to reach good holds. Easily up face with good pro. Move left to clip bolt on the crux of On The Lee Side Direct, then up slab, past bolt and reach 2RBB. Scramble to top.

Originally an aid route graded at 20M1, now been freed at grade 23. A serious climb. Start at far right of Stirling Terrace bellow the layback crack.

(1) 45m 20: Up crack for 10m, then move left onto face. A long runout (6m at grade 19) leads to a horizontal band. Move left a few meters, then follow crack line to large ledge and belay.

(2) 45m 23: Up curving flake which becomes an undercling. Follow the faint crack (originally aided), then climb last 25m to widening crack.