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Summary

Steep, dry, bolts.

Description

One of the best wet weather options for hard cranking in Sydney. This large South Central style cave has a good selection of powerful and well bolted testpieces. Slopers are common and low humidity can change a routes grade considerably. Generally grades here are stiff to hard very stiff. Mist tends to hang around here so spoodgy conditions after heavy rain can be a problem. It's shady in the morning and gets a little sun late in the day. Leeches can be a problem on the walk-in.

Access issues

Be aware - this crag is officially ILLEGAL (no climbing in Royal NP) - so keep a very low profile. Park your car down the road away from the crag access track, or even better walk in from above on the tourist track. No loud yelling, no rubbish left behind and no big groups. When packing to and from the car keep climbing gear such as ropes in your bag. Don't let people driving by know what you are doing

Approach

Due to access issues please ask a Shire local for more info on this great little sport cave.

History

Established after 2003. Routes by CT, JL, LW, NM

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 * Heal the World Sport 16m, 10

Far right route in the cave. Very steep jugging with a lot of heel hooking and an airy finish. Extend runners or face horrible rope-drag.

FFA: NM, 2010

2

Link up of Heal the World into Salt and Battery. Start up HtW and finish through the SaB anchors. A nice and obvious linkup. Keep an eye on rope drag

FA: Sherlock Holmes, 2010

3
22 ** Salt and Battery Sport 14m, 7

A bit stop start but very steep! Roof flake to start, out another roof then finish through roof to anchors in orange scoop. Overhangs 6m.

FFA: NM, 2010

4
24 ** Make or Break Sport 12m

Seriously steep roofing that could be the longest route at Rockford. Start at undercut corner (as for "Long Arm") . Up corner then right along ledge to awkward stance under roof. Fire out roof on pockets to slopers. Traverse right along more epic slopers to juggier roof flake. Finish out ceiling along Grampians like roof feature to anchors on headwall. Back-jump to clean. This route was extended in 2014 by several metres to a more obvious finish.

FA: CT, 2007

FFA: (Extension) NM, 2014

5

Corner as for Make or Break for 1 bolt then head left under roof to finish for anchors of ICBINL.

FA: JL

6

?

FA: CT

7

The link of Long Arm in Craftys Singles. A bit committing from the anchors of I Can Believe into the rest stance on Crafty Single (Undercling to right hand crimp).

FA: JL, 2007

8

Packs some punch for a 7m climb. Well chalked mini route left of the corner.

FA: Luke.W, 2003

9

Good powerful extension. From anchors of original traverse right and out through roof to DRB anchor in scoop (knee bar to clip anchors safely!). Originally graded 22!

FA: CT, 2007

10
25 *** Crafty Single Sport 12m, 7

Classic of the crag. Starts 3m left of I Can Believe. Bounce up easy wall past 3 ringbolts to roof. Gather your thoughts and push along the horizontal roof to boulder problems finale and and anchor. Back-jump to clean.

Set by Luke.W

FA: CT

11
25 * Strain your Brain Sport 9m

Tricky start to a great roof.

FA: CT

12
25 ** Helesburgh Playboy Sport 12m

Bouldery start then finish on biner. If you are awesome try blasting out to the lip.

FA: CT

13
26 * The Curly Landing Sport 16m

Kinda over doing it, but the holds are there and climbs well. link "HP" into "AATJ"

FA: CT

14
26 *** ...And All The Jazz Sport 13m

Finish on Double RBs at lip. Oh so good!

FA: CT

15
27 ** Black Balloon Sport 17m

Climb Crime is Bolting then traverse right, through roof and finish in the Top Cave. Classic.

FA: ct

16
27 ** 5 O'Clock Shadow Sport 13m

Another extension to Crime is Bolting through roof and mantle. Crimpy bouldery fun.

FA: CT, 2008

17
19 to 22 Crime is Bolting Sport 6m

The punchy little access route to the top caves, and a good warm-up in itself. This was the first route climbed at Rockford. Up and slightly left through bulgy slopers to crux move getting to ledge. Double ringbolt belay on ledge.

FA: Luke.W, 2003

18
23 Nasogastric Tube Sport 8m

Start as for the DB for a couple of bolts, then move directly up to FH (that is no longer there opps??). Big move from here to RB and continue to top out

FA: JL, 2007

19
20 Standard Deviation Sport 8m

Start as for "CIB", but move L at 1 bolt. Clipping two more on the way.

FA: JL, 2007

20
21 to 23 ** Drug Baron / The Nose Sport 8m, 4

The furthest left route climbing the short nose with close spaced rings. It's short but it packs some very good punchy climbing. No lower-off anchor, so backjump to clean.

FA: Luke.W, 2003

TOP CAVE - The next routes are in the two orange caves directly above the previous couple of routes. You need to climb one of these routes to get to a spacious belay ledge and bolt belay.

21
17 * Southern Exposure Unknown 10m

Climb The Bulge from ledge above Crime is Bolting then walk right along ledge and up to double bolt belay on right side of cave. Climb the very exposed right side of top cave on mega jugs. Airy and Rad!

FA: GS & CT

22
17 to 19 The Bulge Sport 4m

The access from top deck to top cave, More like a problem than a route. but a good one. 1 move. It's mainly to access other routes.

FA: LUke.W

23
Project (Steve H?) Unknown 10m

Closely spaced rusty FHs on left edge of the right cave up a little protruding feature. Climb The Bulge to access the start.

Set by SH?, 2007

24
Project (Willis?) Unknown Project

No bolts on this but the ringbolt holes have been drilled. Start as for Full Term for one bolt then go right and up black face on scoops. Looks good.

25
16 * Full Term Sport 12m, 4

Grade 16 version of Taipan Wall. From ledge above Crime is Bolting walk left (roped) for about 15m past rusty bolt to double ringbolt belay. Climb right edge of scoop feature on delicious juggy holds. Bolts are a little tricky to clip in places (they are positioned too far to the right).

FA: JL, 2007

The next routes are on a small broken crag on the far left end of the crag - about 80m left of the Crime is Bolting. Scramble up to a ledge below the only route here - the obvious gritstone looking arete of Apple Pie Arete.

26
Project2 (Willis?) Unknown Project 12m

Sandy orange face/flake about 10m right of Apple Pie Arete. Bolt holes drilled, no bolts.

27

The areté on the far left end of crag. Tricky start, then hard move past 2nd RB, followed by nice climbing to top. This has been a project since 2007. Grade 26?

Set by JL, 2007

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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