Rockford Mostly sport climbing27 routes in crag
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Steep, dry, bolts.
One of the best wet weather options for hard cranking in Sydney. This large South Central style cave has a good selection of powerful and well bolted testpieces. Slopers are common and low humidity can change a routes grade considerably. Generally grades here are stiff to hard very stiff. Mist tends to hang around here so spoodgy conditions after heavy rain can be a problem. It's shady in the morning and gets a little sun late in the day. Leeches can be a problem on the walk-in.
Be aware - this crag is officially ILLEGAL (no climbing in Royal NP) - so keep a very low profile. Park your car down the road away from the crag access track, or even better walk in from above on the tourist track. No loud yelling, no rubbish left behind and no big groups. When packing to and from the car keep climbing gear such as ropes in your bag. Don't let people driving by know what you are doing
Due to access issues please ask a Shire local for more info on this great little sport cave.
Established after 2003. Routes by CT, JL, LW, NM
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
A bit stop start but very steep! Roof flake to start, out another roof then finish through roof to anchors in orange scoop. Overhangs 6m.
FFA: NM, 2010
Seriously steep roofing that could be the longest route at Rockford. Start at undercut corner (as for "Long Arm") . Up corner then right along ledge to awkward stance under roof. Fire out roof on pockets to slopers. Traverse right along more epic slopers to juggier roof flake. Finish out ceiling along Grampians like roof feature to anchors on headwall. Back-jump to clean. This route was extended in 2014 by several metres to a more obvious finish.
FA: CT, 2007
FFA: (Extension) NM, 2014
Corner as for Make or Break for 1 bolt then head left under roof to finish for anchors of ICBINL.
The link of Long Arm in Craftys Singles. A bit committing from the anchors of I Can Believe into the rest stance on Crafty Single (Undercling to right hand crimp).
FA: JL, 2007
Packs some punch for a 7m climb. Well chalked mini route left of the corner.
FA: Luke.W, 2003
Good powerful extension. From anchors of original traverse right and out through roof to DRB anchor in scoop (knee bar to clip anchors safely!). Originally graded 22!
FA: CT, 2007
Classic of the crag. Starts 3m left of I Can Believe. Bounce up easy wall past 3 ringbolts to roof. Gather your thoughts and push along the horizontal roof to boulder problems finale and and anchor. Back-jump to clean.
Set by Luke.W
Tricky start to a great roof.
Bouldery start then finish on biner. If you are awesome try blasting out to the lip.
Kinda over doing it, but the holds are there and climbs well. link "HP" into "AATJ"
Finish on Double RBs at lip. Oh so good!
Climb Crime is Bolting then traverse right, through roof and finish in the Top Cave. Classic.
Another extension to Crime is Bolting through roof and mantle. Crimpy bouldery fun.
FA: CT, 2008