The Low Down

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1984

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Trapeze

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge, Don Bennett, 1964

Swinging

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976

Excellent overhanging finger locking.

FA: Roger Caffin, John Zmood, Margaret James, 1966

FFA: Greg Child., 1978

Siva Direct

As for Siva, instead of moving L into 'Swinging', head R and up past few BRs.

FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983

The Overtaker

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2002

FA: Dave Jones, 2013

The Undertaker

The first grade 25 in the country.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1965

FFA: Mike Law, Greg Child., 1978

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

FA: John Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

Probably the best of this trio of hard routes just R of 'The Undertaker'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

FA: Andrew Smith, Glen Devereaux., 1964

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

FA: Tim Hancock, Andrew Thomson, 1969

FFA: Mark Moorhead., 1980

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Mick Colyvan, Marty Beare., 1983

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter,

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

Iron Cross

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Chris Peisker., 1978

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter., 1965

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

FFA: John Smart., 1978

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith,

Saturation Point

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff.., 1976

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

Warmonger

Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux.

Start: In the centre of the E face is a thin seam.

FA: Gornon Talbett, Peter McKeand, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

L'inconscience Tranquil

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

Procol Harum

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Nati Dread

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

Nati Dread Direct

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007