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Description

The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

10 min walk from campground, heading N.

Descent Notes

20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
25 ** The Low Down Trad 25m

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1984

2
22 Acrobat Trad 20m

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Marian, 1978

3
19 A Cut Above Trad 30m

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble, Jane Wilkinson, 1984

4
26 Think Positive Trad 22m

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

5
11 * Trapeze Trad 20m

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge, Don Bennett, 31st Oct

6
17 ** Swinging Sport 20m, 2

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Dave Mudie, 1976

7
22 Siva Trad 18m

Excellent overhanging finger locking.

FA: Roger Caffin, John Zmood, Margaret James, 1966

FFA: Greg Child., 1978

8
26 * Siva Direct Trad 20m

As for Siva, instead of moving L into 'Swinging', head R and up past few BRs.

FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983

9
29 * The Overtaker Sport 18m

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2002

10

FA: Dave Jones, 2013

11
25 *** The Undertaker Trad 18m

The first grade 25 in the country.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1965

FFA: Mike Law, Greg Child., 1978

12
25 Me and My Hamster Trad 24m

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

FA: John Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

13
25 The Butterfly Trad 18m

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

14
24 Elusive Butterfly Trad 18m

Probably the best of this trio of hard routes just R of 'The Undertaker'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

15
14 Cunrack Trad 16m

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

FA: Andrew Smith, Glen Devereaux., 13th Jun

16
25 Blow Up Trad 12m

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

FA: Tim Hancock, Andrew Thomson, 1969

FFA: Mark Moorhead., 1980

17
22 Apocalypse Now! Trad 5m

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Mick Colyvan, Marty Beare., 1983

18
23 Red Baron Trad 18m

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

19

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

20
16 The Hun Trad 13m

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

21
24 * Iron Cross Trad 14m

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Chris Peisker., 1978

22
15 Mickey Finn Trad 16m

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

FA: Peter Jackson, Chris Baxter., 1965

23
24 Kor Trad 10m

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

FA: Andrew Smith, Chris Baxter, 1967

FFA: John Smart., 1978

24
24 Dynamic Trad 10m

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

25
17 Cheap Chills Trad 10m

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

FA: Martin Lama, Graeme Smith

26
21 * Saturation Point Trad 15m

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

FA: Peter McKeand, Gordon Talbett, 1969

FFA: Glenn Tempest, Kevin Lindorff.., 1976

27
24 Sausagemonger Trad 15m

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little., 1985

28
24 * Warmonger Trad 18m

Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux.

Start: In the centre of the E face is a thin seam.

FA: Gornon Talbett, Peter McKeand, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

29

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

30
26 *** Procol Harum Trad 25m

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

31
30 * Nati Dread Mixed 30m, 5

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

32
31 * Nati Dread Direct Sport 25m

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007