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Description

The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Castle Crag Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

10 min walk from campground, heading N.

Descent notes

20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Sensational jug hauling traverse

Start: Start as for 'Trapeze' & 'Swinging'

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1984

Latch onto the hanging flake just L of Trapeze's start, then finish up the wall R of 'Trapeze'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Marian, 1978

As for 'Trapeze' until the end of the traverse, then head diagonally up and L to ledge on arete. Keep moving L (above the roof) into Procul.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Terry Tremble & Jane Wilkinson, 1984

As for 'The Low Down' until 1st bolt, then go up R to another bolt and into 'A Cut Above'. Step R into mossy seam and head up to ledge with rap anchors.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above.

Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face.

FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964

As for 'Trapeze' to the bolt (where 'Trapeze' breaks left), and continue up the arete past another bolt to a new lower-off.

Start: As for 'Trapeze'.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976

An interesting, albeit short route managing to squeeze in hand jamming, finger locking, an undercling, sidepulls, a mantle (of sorts) and a delicate traverse in its first 6 metres.

Clip the first bolt and traverse off L to Swinging, then up.

Start: Up the pillar 2m R of Swinging.

FA: Roger Caffin, John Zmood & Margaret James, 1966

FFA: Greg Child., 1978

Crimp straight up from where Siva moves L past a bolt or two

FA: Gordon Poultney

As for Siva, instead of moving L into 'Swinging', head R a few metres and up past few BRs.

FA: Mark Moorhead., 1983

Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux.

Start: Between Siva and 'The Undertaker' is a line of bolts.

FA: Nick Sutter, 2002

Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start.

FA: Dave Jones, 2013

The first grade 25 in the country.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1965

FFA: Mike Law & Greg Child., 1978

As for 'The Butterfly', but continue traversing across 'The Undertaker' and finish up 'Swinging'.

FA: John Muir & Geoff Little., 1985

Follow 'Elusive Butterfly' to 2nd piton, then traverse L, almost into 'The Undertaker', then climb up R into groove.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little., 1985

Probably the best of this trio of hard routes just R of 'The Undertaker'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

FA: Andrew Smith & Glen Devereaux., 1964

Tries to free an ugly bolt ladder, but bails when the going gets too hard.

FA: Tim Hancock & Andrew Thomson, 1969

FFA: Mark Moorhead., 1980

Up the the seam past a fixed peg.

Start: Below the wall with 'Red Baron' is a tiny seam. If you can't find it you might need a microscope.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Mick Colyvan & Marty Beare., 1983

Climb the face just R of the arete.

Start: Traverse in the the base from under Procul Harem (easy but exposed). Start at the far L of ledge.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

Probably one of the first routes at the grade in the country? These days it rarely gets repeated.

Start: To the R of 'Blow Up' is a poorly protected groove.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Henry Barber., 1975

Reachy moves up the R side of the wall facing the campsite, past a piton and not much else for gear.

Start: Traverse in from the start of Procul Harem (easy but exposed - you might want to rope up).

FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965

Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

FFA: Chris Peisker., 1978

Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).

Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.

FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter., 1965

Climb the slimey, curving crack, past a few old pitons, to the ledge.

Start: At far L end of lower wall (below 'Iron Cross' and Mickey Finn).

FA: Andrew Smith & Chris Baxter, 1967

FFA: John Smart., 1978

Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.

Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith

Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.

FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett, 1969

FFA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff.., 1976

Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little., 1985

Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux.

Start: In the centre of the E face is a thin seam.

FA: Gornon Talbett & Peter McKeand, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978

After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.

Start: As for 'Warmonger'.

FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994

The country's first 26.

Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.

Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.

FA: Andy Pollit, 1990

As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that).

FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007

Activity

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