Castle Crag Mostly trad climbing32 routes in cliff
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The detached pinnacle standing well away from the main cliff. Directly in front of Grotto Wall.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
10 min walk from campground, heading N.
20m abseil from rap station above Trapeze.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Originally freed with the aid of a fixed peg placed on abseil. It's gone now thanks to the Law of Ethical Entropy, but small cams will do fine.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968
FFA: Chris Peisker., 1978
Trickier than it looks (take some big gear for the start).
Start: The wide crack at the left end of the east face.
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter., 26th May
Originally done with a fixed wire, this is now a popular top rope problem.
Start: About 10m R of Kor is a thin seam.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Right-slanting dog-leg crack just right of 'Dynamic'
FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith
Climb the wall R of 'Mickey Finn' past the unnerving rattly block.
FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett, 1969
FFA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff.., 1976
Up the wall 1m R of SP (contrived at the beginning), until able to move R past tricky moves to jugs.
FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little., 1985
Climb the thin, attractive seam past a desperate crux.
Start: In the centre of the E face is a thin seam.
FA: Gornon Talbett & Peter McKeand, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan., 1978
After a few metres, break diagonally R and then power up past bolts to the lower-off L of Procol.
Start: As for 'Warmonger'.
FA: Jean-Minh Trinh-Thieu, 1994
The country's first 26.
Start: At the back L corner of the cave a line leads up to the prominent roof crack.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Power through the roof to the lip. The section after the roof was originally done by deviating R into the Low Down, then doing it's crux before continuing straight up. Has since been straightened out.
Start: R of Procol is a line of bolts through the ceiling.
FA: Andy Pollit, 1990