Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Llareggub Variant
The line, moving L then up at half height. Rap off Llareggub's DRB anchor.
Start: Start 2m L of 'Llareggub '.
FA: David Shelton, Tim Day, Erik Lock, 1996
22
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
2
Llareggub
Originally graded 12... things were different back then!
Start: At a little painted "L " about 10m R of the L edge of 'Grotto Wall '.
FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris., 1967
18
Trad 15m
3
Factoids
Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up 'Hot August Night ' (thin and poorly protected). If you can manage one or the other, finish at rap anchor.
FA: Robin Miller, Mike Collie, Craig Nottle., 1983
21
Trad 15m
4
Hot August Night
Up 'Factoids ' until rooflet, then step R and up blunt arete (pro a bit iffy). There is also a loose block up high, so don't go pulling it onto your belayer. Rap off as for 'Factoids '.
Start: As for 'Factoids '.
FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, Louise Shepherd., 1992
21
Trad 15m
5
The Flue
The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall '.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Garry Sudholz., 1967
12
Trad 30m
6
Bastress
The arching grey buttress between 'The Flue ' and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.
Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.
FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson., 1967
11
Trad 36m
7
Nothing
Pretty contrived.
Start: Just R of 'Bastress '.
25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.
10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress ' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue ). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.
FA: Mike Law-Smith (pitch 1), Mike Law, Steve Howden (pitch 2)., 1982
23
Trad 25m
8
Body Recession
Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.
Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.
FA: Martin Scheel, 1989
27
Mixed 15m
, 3
9
Heart of Stone
One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.
Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.
FA: Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett, 1969
14
Trad 27m
10
Toad in the Hole
Climb the slab past 2 bolts to the chains.
Start: The back wall of the grotto is a short slab.
FA: Steve Howden, Mike Law, 1982
20
Mixed 12m
, 2
11
Twenty-nine at the Quarry
Climb the slab R of TITH , clipping that route's 2nd bolt. Probably best to top-rope it from the chains after leading TITH .
Start: R of 'Toad in the Hole '.
FA: Charlie Creese, Robin Miller, 1985
21
Trad 12m
12
Catch 22
Up chimney then traverse R (pin) to corner. Up this then move R (crux) to finish.
Start: At the chimney at the R end of the grotto.
FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson, 1967
FFA: Nic Taylor., 1976
19
Trad 15m
13
Catch 22 Variant Finish
Keeps going straight up to access Toad's chains. Would've been done a 100 times before.
FA: Michael Hillan, Paul Badenoch,
18
Trad 12m
14
Catch This
Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.
Start: As for Catch 22.
FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1982
23
Mixed 15m
, 1
15
Hot Coq
Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.
Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.
FA: Nick White, 1992
27
Mixed 15m
, 5
16
Aussie Drivers
Head straight up. Maybe move L to rap off Hot Coq's anchor at the top?
Start: 4m R of 'Catch This '
FA: Michael Collie, Michael Totterdell, 1983
20
Trad 12m
Route Grade Style Popularity
17
Passion
Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.
Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer '.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln Shepherd, 1983
22
Mixed 25m
, 1
18
A Lusty Sequel
Climb the face L of 'Boomer ' to the top of the crag. Wander off L to Pan Grove or 'Celeste ' rap station.
Start: Just L of 'Boomer '.
FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983
18
Trad 45m
19
Valm
Start as for 'Boomer ' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.
Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.
FA: Colin Lindorff, Bill van Muirs, 1970
15
Trad 30m
20
Boomer
An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.
Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.
24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.
18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L ) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.
Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...
25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.
18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker '.
FA: Col Abbott, Jenny McMahon, 1965
FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983
15
Trad 42m
21
John and Betty
Popular sport route.
Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully
FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992
23
Sport 23m
, 5
22
Amazing Lace Direct Start
Thin and poorly protected climbing leads to the original route. Finish up that.
Start: Just L of the original route.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1980
21
Trad 23m
23
Amazing Lace
Climb into the 'line' from the R (contrived), and up wall to John and Betty's rap station.
Start: R of 'John and Betty ', and just L of 'Squeaker '.
FA: Steve Moore, Chris Shepherd, 1980
21
Trad 23m
24
Squeaker
Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.
Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer '.
23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer '.
18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer '.
FA: Possibly John Moore and Chris Dewhirst, 1965
14
Trad 41m
25
Thingummyjig or Something Similar
Up black face to little overhang (crux, small cams) at 3/4 height.
Start: A few metres R of Square
FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1987
18
Trad 38m
26
Tich
Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.
Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker ', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.
FA: Digby and Alison Gotts, 1971
17
Trad 40m
27
Rites of Passage
Can be used to access 'Golden Oldies ' Wall, if you're into that sort of thing.
Start: 5m R of 'Tich ' at foot of slab.
FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Jack Lewis, 1986
19
Trad 25m
28
Captain Vomit
The LH diagonal.
FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983
18
Trad 20m
29
Lord of the Ring-Holes
The RH diagonal. After the corner, move R through bulge and up to overhang above.
FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983
20
Trad 25m
30
Sir Francis Goose
Up groove to bulge. Take the line L of the overhanging nose on massive jugs.
Start: 3m R of LOTRH is a groove.
FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983
19
Trad 25m
31
Chairman Meow
Climb the wall 2m R of SFG , trending slightly R. Take the line R of bulge.
FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983
18
Trad 25m
32
A New Fridge
The beautiful, but "all too short" thin crack starting well up the face.
Start: Start just L of 'No More Gaps '.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998
17
Trad 10m
33
No More Gaps
Follow cracks up R-wards to a bold finish up the R arete of the gully face.
Start: Start in the gully around L of 'Argyle Street ' at a grassy patch.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998
16
Trad 12m