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Description

The buttress directly behind Castle Crag.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

Scramble down the back of the gully behind Grotto Wall (Pan Grove). 20m abseil from the rap station on the big chockstone.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 Llareggub Variant Trad 15m

The line, moving L then up at half height. Rap off Llareggub's DRB anchor.

A hold's broken off this, making it more like 24 than 22

Start: Start 2m L of 'Llareggub'.

FA: David Shelton, Tim Day, Erik Lock, 1996

2
18 * Llareggub Trad 15m

Originally graded 12... things were different back then!

Start: At a little painted "L" about 10m R of the L edge of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Dave Neilson, Rod Harris., 1967

3
23 Interstitial Trad 15m

Face L of Factoids, with a crux 3rp that is best placed on abseil. I'm going to put a bolt in. Traverse L after crux to finish up crack, rap off Llareggub chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Paul Deacon, 2009

4
21 Factoids Trad 15m

Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up 'Hot August Night' (thin and poorly protected). If you can manage one or the other, finish at rap anchor.

FA: Robin Miller, Mike Collie, Craig Nottle., 1983

5
21 Hot August Night Trad 15m

Up 'Factoids' until rooflet, then step R and up blunt arete (pro a bit iffy). There is also a loose block up high, so don't go pulling it onto your belayer. Rap off as for 'Factoids'.

Start: As for 'Factoids'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, Louise Shepherd., 1992

6
12 The Flue Trad 30m

The prominent gash at the L end of 'Grotto Wall'.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Garry Sudholz., 1967

7
11 * Bastress Trad 36m

The arching grey buttress between 'The Flue' and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson., 1967

8
23 Nothing Trad 25m

Pretty contrived.

Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.

  1. 25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.

  2. 10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.

FA: Mike Law-Smith (pitch 1), Mike Law, Steve Howden (pitch 2)., 1982

9
27 ** Body Recession Mixed 15m, 3

Climb past 3 bolts (and sometimes a fixed wire) to a lower-off.

Start: Bounding the L end of the grotto is an overhanging orange wall.

FA: Martin Scheel, 1989

10
14 Heart of Stone Trad 27m

One of the Mount's best waterfalls after an extended period of rain.

Start: Deep in the back of the grotto beside a pile of skeleton bones.

FA: Bruno Zielke, Gordon Talbett, 1969

11
20 Toad in the Hole Mixed 12m, 2

Climb the slab past 2 bolts to the chains.

Start: The back wall of the grotto is a short slab.

FA: Steve Howden, Mike Law, 1982

12

Climb the slab R of TITH, clipping that route's 2nd bolt. Probably best to top-rope it from the chains after leading TITH.

Start: R of 'Toad in the Hole'.

FA: Charlie Creese, Robin Miller, 1985

13
19 Catch 22 Trad 15m

Up chimney then traverse R (pin) to corner. Up this then move R (crux) to finish.

Start: At the chimney at the R end of the grotto.

FA: Rod Harris, Dave Neilson, 1967

FFA: Nic Taylor., 1976

14

Keeps going straight up to access Toad's chains. Would've been done a 100 times before.

FA: Michael Hillan, Paul Badenoch

15
23 * Catch This Mixed 15m, 1

Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.

Start: As for Catch 22.

FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1982

16
27 * Hot Coq Mixed 15m, 5

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

FA: Nick White, 1992

17
20 Aussie Drivers Trad 12m

Head straight up. Maybe move L to rap off Hot Coq's anchor at the top?

Start: 4m R of 'Catch This'

FA: Michael Collie, Michael Totterdell, 1983

18
22 Passion Mixed 25m, 1

Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.

This is a complete sandbag - much harder than 22 and the bolt is rusted and looks rubbish.

Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln Shepherd, 1983

19
18 A Lusty Sequel Trad 45m

Climb the face L of 'Boomer' to the top of the crag. Wander off L to Pan Grove or 'Celeste' rap station.

Start: Just L of 'Boomer'.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

20
15 Valm Trad 30m

Start as for 'Boomer' and head into the gulch. Trash up this to the top.

Start: About 10m R of the grotto is a deep chimney/gully.

FA: Colin Lindorff, Bill van Muirs, 1970

21
15 Boomer Trad 42m

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

  1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

  2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

  1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

  2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

FA: Col Abbott, Jenny McMahon, 1965

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, 1983

22
23 John and Betty Sport 23m, 5

Popular sport route.

Start: Below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, just R of high gully

FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992

23

Thin and poorly protected climbing leads to the original route. Finish up that.

Start: Just L of the original route.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Steve Moore, 1980

24
21 Amazing Lace Trad 23m

Climb into the 'line' from the R (contrived), and up wall to John and Betty's rap station.

Start: R of 'John and Betty', and just L of 'Squeaker'.

FA: Steve Moore, Chris Shepherd, 1980

25
14 Squeaker Trad 41m

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

  1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

  2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

FA: Possibly John Moore and Chris Dewhirst, 1965

26

Up black face to little overhang (crux, small cams) at 3/4 height.

Start: A few metres R of Square

FA: Dennis Kemp, Dave Mudie, 1987

27
17 Tich Trad 40m

Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.

Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.

FA: Digby and Alison Gotts, 1971

28
19 Rites of Passage Trad 25m

Can be used to access 'Golden Oldies' Wall, if you're into that sort of thing.

Start: 5m R of 'Tich' at foot of slab.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns, Jack Lewis, 1986

29
18 Captain Vomit Trad 20m

The LH diagonal.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

30

The RH diagonal. After the corner, move R through bulge and up to overhang above.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

31
19 Sir Francis Goose Trad 25m

Up groove to bulge. Take the line L of the overhanging nose on massive jugs.

Start: 3m R of LOTRH is a groove.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

32
18 Chairman Meow Trad 25m

Climb the wall 2m R of SFG, trending slightly R. Take the line R of bulge.

FA: Craig Nottle, Michael Collie, 1983

33
17 A New Fridge Trad 10m

The beautiful, but "all too short" thin crack starting well up the face.

Start: Start just L of 'No More Gaps'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998

34
16 No More Gaps Trad 12m

Follow cracks up R-wards to a bold finish up the R arete of the gully face.

Start: Start in the gully around L of 'Argyle Street' at a grassy patch.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1998

Areas

Add subarea(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
Pan Grove Cliff
7
59
31m
4
2
11m