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Description

The home of 'Living With A Hernia'

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Located at the very top of Pan Grove this area is easiest approached from above. From the Disabled lookout, tracking right, facing out (south-east), along the cliff edge. Just downhill from the bouldering area Islamabad. There is an easy descent to the left of the block (facing out).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
25 Roughing Minors Trad 10m

Not that nice.

Start: The crackline left of 'Living With a Hernia'.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1995

2
30 *** Living With a Hernia Sport 10m, 3

Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette).

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003

3

Takes the overhanging crack just R of 'Living With a Hernia'. Good kneebars on the crux, or, like Nathan Hoette you can do it without at about 28.

FA: 'Strong' Wally, 2000

4
21 Eponymous Trad 15m

Up the face R of Hunchback of Natimuk. Not that great.

FA: Paul Hoskins, 2002