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Description

Climbs that either start from Pan Grove or from the great diagonal terrace above, but not on Tiger Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

Scramble down the gully to 25 metre abseil from chains.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Fox Tales Trad 30m

Amble up the crappy rock, finishing up the arête overhanging the gully to the L.

Start: At foot of L end of buttress at the top of Pan Grove - about 15m R of 'Rat on Roller Skates' (on Tiger Wall).

FA: Chris and Sue Baxter, Mike Stone., 1986

2
12 Golden Oldies Trad 30m

It's scary to think they called the route this way back then!

Start: 5m R of 'Fox Tales'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Jack Lewis, 1986

3
21 Boys Keep Swinging Trad 20m

Climb the wall to a ledge, then move L to line up the overhanging arête. Steeply to another ledge and finish to the R.

Start: A fair way R of 'Golden Oldies' is a narrow buttress.

FA: Chris Baxter, Eric Jones., 1986

4

Up the wall to a ledge and then climb R edge of way to loose blocks (scary) and another ledge. Traverse L past loose blocks (scary) for 2m to a small corner and then up this.

Start: 1m R of Boys is a mossy wall.

FA: Pritchard, Hoskins, Muir., 1993

5

Where 'Stepping Out' traverses R, continue up the arete past a fixed wire.

Start: As for 'Stepping Out'.

FA: Roland Foster, Phil Bigg., 1984

6
25 * Stepping Out Trad 40m

Up thin diagonal line (possibly past a fixed wire) to a ledge. Traverse right past a BR (reachy clip - so have a wire ready), then move up the wall (cruxy). Move R and then over the bulge to the top.

Start: Scramble up the gully to the base of the L arete of the orange buttress.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd., 1981

7
16 * Celeste Trad 40m

In the shade for most of the day, so a good one to do when's it's hot.

Start: Below the L-facing grey corner at the R end of the wall.

FA: Rein Kamar, Bill Andrews., 1969