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Description

The slabby wall to the L of the Flight Deck with a roof above.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent Notes

There is a rap station at the top of Cassandra. Also one L of the base of Cassandra so you don't have to scramble down the slabs below.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
17 Limbo (Baby Limbo) Sport 18m, 3

It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29th Jun

2
20 * The Last Disco Dancer Sport 18m, 4

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29th Jun

3
18 * Cassandra Mixed 40m 2, 5

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 22m (18) Straight up past lots of bolts (5??), then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

  2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

FA: Mike Stone & Peter Watling, 1975

FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton), 1977

4
22 * Cassandra Direct Sport 23m

Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.

Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.

FA: C Peisker, 1978

5
23 * Pain Street Mixed 15m, 6

While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.

Start: Start as for 'Cassandra'.

6
22 Warts and All Mixed 18m, 1

Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.

Start: Start 3m R of C.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Heinz Zak, 1985

7
20 R Permanent Wave Trad 40m 2

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

  1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

  2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

FA: Rod Young & Chris Shepherd, 1980

8
15 Ckinarde Trad 40m 2

Start: Start in the gully R of PW.

  1. 20m (15) Chimney to the ledge.

  2. 20m (15) 'Small' crack to slopey ledge, R then back L via spooky block.

FA: Norm Osborne & Paul Gillis, 1970

9
10 The Tin Crucifix Trad 42m

COntinue up gully for 12m, climb to ledge, L and up crack.

Start: Start at the bolt belay of 'Ckinarde' (the location of which is not provided...).

FA: Norm Osborne & Paul Gillis, 1970

10
23 X Unguarded Moments Trad 40m

Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Malcolm Matheson, 1982