A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide.
For more information refer to our Usage policy
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
The slabby wall to the L of the Flight Deck with a roof above.
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Steep scramble up the slabs below.
- Descent Notes:
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.
Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.
FA: Mike Stone, Peter Watling, 1975
FA: (LHV Kevin Lindorff, Keith Egerton), 1977
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'.
Start: Start up 'Cassandra'.
FA: C Peisker, 1978
While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.
Start: Start as for 'Cassandra'.
Warts and All
Through bulge, BR, tend a bit L but don't join 'Cassandra' until the diagonal ramp.
Start: Start 3m R of C.
FA: Louise Shepherd, Heinz Zak, 1985
Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.
FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1980
Start: Start in the gully R of PW.
FA: Norm Osborne, Paul Gillis, 1970
The Tin Crucifix
COntinue up gully for 12m, climb to ledge, L and up crack.
Start: Start at the bolt belay of 'Ckinarde' (the location of which is not provided...).
FA: Norm Osborne, Paul Gillis, 1970
Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!
Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1982
|10||The Tin Crucifix||42m|
|20 R||Permanent Wave||240m|
|Warts and All||118m,|
|23 X||Unguarded Moments||40m|