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Description

The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent Notes

There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

2
30 ** Afterburner Mixed 25m, 7

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

3
29 ** Jet Lag Mixed 25m, 5

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984

4
24 * It'll Never Fly Sport 30m, 5

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Start just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

5
25 *** Have A Good Flight Sport 25m, 6

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: Start as for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

6
23 *** Orestes Trad 40m

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

  1. 20m (24) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

  2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

FA: Jim Newlands, John Bennett, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch, 8/76), 1979

7
27 Detestes Mixed 15m, 4

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.

Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

8
22 R * Plimsoll Line Trad 15m

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

9
26 R * Celine and Julie Go Bolting Mixed 15m, 2

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, 1984