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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Gareth Llewellin Brendan Heywood Adrian Ridgley Steve Andrew Connolly Will Monks Matt Brooks JJ Simon Wilson

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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Table of contents

1. The Flight Deck 9 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad,Sport
Description:

The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Steep scramble up the slabs below.

Descent Notes:

There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 ** Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

FA: Kim Carigan, 1984

27
Sport 20m
Will Monks 8 weeks ago

1st go, flashed the crux ... but had been on everything up higher

Gareth Llewellin 13 weeks ago

Fell off up high first go somehow, then kept it together

2 ** Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.

Start: Start as for JL.

FA: Ingvar Lidman,

30
Mixed 25m , 7
3 * Jet Lag

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984

29
Mixed 25m , 5
Matt Brooks 9 weeks ago

Climbed this in 2000

Gareth Llewellin 6 months ago

spent a while flaying my tips on the crux section. Didn't feel impossible as it did last time.

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RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
4 * It'll Never Fly

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Start just left of 'Orestes'.

FA: Mike Law, 1982

24
Sport 30m , 5
Neil Monteith 6 years ago

Alzheimer's onsight - 12 years after previous attempt.

Phil Neville 6 years ago

Interesting move onto the arete.

5 *** Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.

Start: Start as for It'll Never Fly.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

25
Sport 25m , 6
Simon Madden 9 days ago

Warmed up on it so may as well cool down on it. Laps?

Simon Madden 9 days ago

Warm up?

6 *** Orestes

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

  1. 20m (24) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

  2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

FA: Jim Newlands, John Bennett, 1966

FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch, 8/76), 1979

24
Trad 40m
Simon Madden 9 days ago

Powerful line, some delicate bits then a memorable traverse. Outstanding.

Damien Ayers 2 years ago

Equal hardest trad onsight. Felt like 23, not 24 to me. Almost ran out the entire hand traverse, ...

7 Detestes

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.

Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

27
Mixed 15m , 4
Will Monks 8 weeks ago

Just on TR, but worth doing for sure. had to skip the last 3m due to pendulum

JJ 8 years ago

1 rest. Scary clips in places. Crux at bulge in middle, very balancy and techo!

8 * Plimsoll Line

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...

Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 R
Trad 15m
Vanessa Wills 7 years ago

was going to lead it but emotionally drained after seconding traverse on Orestes

simon sirotti 7 years ago

watch the biner-snapping piton on this one!

9 * Celine and Julie Go Bolting

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, 1984

26 R
Mixed 15m , 2
Gareth Llewellin 7 weeks ago

Memorable. And now rebolted. Yay!

JJ 8 years ago

What a pile of flapper making crap. If your wondering why the 2nd hanger is thrashed, climb on!

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
22 * Plimsoll Line Trad 15m
24 * It'll Never Fly Sport 30m , 5
*** Orestes Trad 40m
25 *** Have A Good Flight Sport 25m , 6
26 * Celine and Julie Go Bolting Mixed 15m , 2
27 Detestes Mixed 15m , 4
** Have a Good Flight Direct Start Sport 20m
29 * Jet Lag Mixed 25m , 5
30 ** Afterburner Mixed 25m , 7