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Table of contents
JFMAMJJASONDseasonalityTrad and Sport
The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Steep scramble up the slabs below.
- Descent Notes:
There is a rap station at the top of It'll Never Fly and one at the top of Orestes.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.
FA: Kim Carigan, 1984
Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains.
Start: Start as for JL.
FA: Ingvar Lidman
Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.
FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984
It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.
Start: Start just left of 'Orestes'.
FA: Mike Law, 1982
Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor.
Start: Start as for It'll Never Fly.
FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982
You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.
Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.
FA: Jim Newlands, John Bennett, 1966
FFA: Kim Carrigan (1st pitchand LHV 13/3/84), Glenn Tempest (2nd pitch, 8/76), 1979
Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986
Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck...
Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.
FA: Clive Parker, Chris Baxter, John Moore, 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Celine and Julie Go Bolting
There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.
FA: Louise and Lincoln Shepherd, 1984
|24||It'll Never Fly||530m,|
|25||Have A Good Flight||625m,|
|26||Celine and Julie Go Bolting||215m,|
|Have a Good Flight Direct Start||20m|