Topo #2116

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Area Type
? Agamemnon Area

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Cliff Unlink area
? Muldoon Area

Muldoon, Curved Air and Fail Safe start at the base of the Atridae and climb the Main Wall. The other routes are on the neighbouring buttresses- Iphigenia and Clytemnaestra.

Cliff Unlink area
? House of Atreus

The main wall of the Atridae.

Cliff Unlink area
? The Flight Deck

The open corner. Lots of chalk on the L wall

Cliff Unlink area
? Cassandra Area

The slabby wall to the L of the Flight Deck with a roof above.

Cliff Unlink area

Topo #1112

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Route Grade Popularity Style
1 ** Have a Good Flight Direct Start

Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added.

27 Sport 20m Unlink route
3 ** Jet Lag

Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly.

29 Mixed 25m, 5 Unlink route
2 ** Afterburner

Climb all of 'Jet Lag' (via the original direct start) then launch onwards into a final boulder problem above the chains. Start: Start as for JL.

30 Mixed 25m, 7 Unlink route
4 * It'll Never Fly

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off. Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

24 Sport 30m, 5 Unlink route
5 *** Have A Good Flight

Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor. Start: As for It'll Never Fly.

25 Sport 25m, 6 Unlink route
6 *** Orestes

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version. Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck. 1. 20m (24) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L. 2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

23 Trad 40m 2 Unlink route
7 Detestes

Up, 4 bolts. 2nd and 4th bolts are scary to clip. Start: Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

27 Mixed 15m, 4 Unlink route
8 * Plimsoll Line

Straight up to Orestes' first anchor. Beware, this route is often slimy, and the pro down low is fiddly mediocre RPs. Originally had pitons, they were eventually replaced with bolts but those were ripped out by the ethics police, so good luck... Start: Start at the thin left-facing corner 4m right of 'Orestes'.

22 R Trad 15m Unlink route
9 * Celine and Julie Go Bolting

There is good small gear and a peg at the start of Plimsoll to get going. Traverses right past a bolt to a rest then up past a second to a runout section. Airy.

26 R Mixed 15m, 2 Unlink route

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