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Description

The main wall of the Atridae.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Approach the base of the cliff from the L.

Descent Notes

Walk off R and come down the gully. Or rap down from the rap station above Muldoon (35m abseil).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Tiresias Trad 38m

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

  1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

  2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

2
21 Blind Profit Mixed 30m, 2

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz., 2007

3
7 Cauldron Trad 60m

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

4
16 * Bat Out Of Hell Trad 30m

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

FA: Loughran + ?, late 80s.

FA: Kieran, 2000

5
13 ** Hell For Leather Trad 30m

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

6
7 * Tantalus Trad 35m

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

  1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

  2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands, Alan Marsland, 1965

7
17 ** Surface To Air Trad 30m

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

8
24 Evading Infra-Red Mixed 35m, 1

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

  1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

  2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Julian Oldmeadow, 1991