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Table of contents

1. House of Atreus 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:

The main wall of the Atridae.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Approach the base of the cliff from the L.

Descent Notes:

Walk off R and come down the gully. Or rap down from the rap station above Muldoon (35m abseil).

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Tiresias

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

  1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

  2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

FA: Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

20Trad 38m
2 Blind Profit

Climbing about three metres right of 'Tiresias' is really good fun and should have been only 18 but for one short hard section.

Start: Start as for 'Tantalus'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz., 2007

21Mixed 30m, 2
3 Cauldron

Completely redundant by today's standards...but then again it was another era back then, even pre-metric.

Start: Start just R of T.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

7Trad 60m
4 * Bat Out Of Hell

A variant finish to 'Hell For Leather' which is more sustained and improves the original.

Start: Start as for Hell for Leather.

FA: Loughran + ?, late 80s.

FA: Kieran, 2000

16Trad 30m
5 ** Hell For Leather

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

13Trad 30m
6 * Tantalus

Start: Start 10m R of 'Tiresias'.

  1. 12m (7) To ledge then R up ramp.

  2. 23m (7) L, over crux bulge and into chimney to finish.

FA: Dick Salt, Jim Newlands, Alan Marsland, 1965

7Trad 35m
7 ** Surface To Air

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.

FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

17Trad 30m
8 Evading Infra-Red

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

  1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

  2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

FA: Matthew Brooks, Julian Oldmeadow, 1991

24Mixed 35m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Cauldron Trad 60m
* Tantalus Trad 35m
13 ** Hell For Leather Trad 30m
16 * Bat Out Of Hell Trad 30m
17 ** Surface To Air Trad 30m
20 Tiresias Trad 38m
21 Blind Profit Mixed 30m, 2
24 Evading Infra-Red Mixed 35m, 1