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Muldoon, Curved Air and Fail Safe start at the base of the Atridae and climb the Main Wall.

The other routes are on the neighbouring buttresses- Iphigenia and Clytemnaestra.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
13 *** Muldoon Trad 42m 2
  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

23 Curved Air Trad 10m

As for 'Muldoon' for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to continue up 'Muldoon' to it's rap anchors.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979

25 Fail Safe Mixed 10m, 3

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

18 * The Illiad Connection Trad 40m 2

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.

Start: Start as for Iphigenia.

  1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

  2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998

17 * lphigenia Trad 45m 2

Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains.

Start: Start at the chimney between Iphigenia Buttress and 'Clytemnaestra Buttress' (ie start as for Clytemnaestra).

  1. 30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.

  2. 15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.

FA: Reg Williams & Peter Jackson, 2000

12 Clytemnaestra Trad 45m

The slick chimney.

Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.

FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1964

16 * Hermione Trad 40m 2

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998


Start: Start as for C.

  1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

  2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

FA: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965


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