Muldoon Area All trad climbing8 routes in cliff
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965
As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave to manky fixed sling. Tricky past this then join a much easier flake in the middle of the face R of 'Muldoon'. It's not clear whether it rejoins 'Muldoon' at the big break 12m below the top, or whether it continues up the intermittent cracks a few metres R of 'Muldoon'.
Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979
Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.
Start: Start as for Iphigenia.
28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.
12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998
Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold.
30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.
15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.
FA: Reg Williams & Peter Jackson, 2000
The slick chimney.
Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.
FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 19th Dec
Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.
Start: Start as for C.
25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.
15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998
Start: Start as for C.
20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.
22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.
FA: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 14th Jun