Site navigation

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.

Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Muldoon Area 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
Seasonality
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 141.845503, -36.762133

Description:

Muldoon, Curved Air and Fail Safe start at the base of the Atridae and climb the Main Wall.

The other routes are on the neighbouring buttresses- Iphigenia and Clytemnaestra.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes:

Abseil descent : 35m from above Muldoon. Some people use a single 60m rope and scramble the last few metres but be careful, there have been slips on this.

Otherwise walk off to right and down the gully between Atridae and Organ Pipes.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Muldoon
  1. 20m (13)

  2. 22m (12) Rap from double ring bolts above the climb - double ropes required, or walk right and down the gully.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams, 1965

13 Trad 42m, 2
2 Curved Air

As for 'Muldoon' for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to continue up 'Muldoon' to it's rap anchors.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Dave Moss, 1979

23 Trad 10m
3 Fail Safe

Used to be desperate and dangerous with only a manky fixed sling for protection, and first you had to get to it. Recenty retroed by the FA so might become more popular. As for 'Muldoon' for 10m, then climb R arete of cave past 3 RB to lower-off.

Start: Start as for 'Muldoon'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

25 Mixed 10m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
4 The Iliad Connection

Mostly not new climbing, but its another great outing on this great buttress. Much of the climb may have been climbed on the first ascent of 'Fail Safe'.

Start: Start as for Iphigenia.

  1. 28m (17) Up Iphigenia past first steep section to rest, go 3m L to flake in the middle of the wall and up this past overhang to small ledge.

  2. 12m (18) Step right, up corner, then up line. Watch the rock.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, Meg Sleeman (Pitch 1). As described :Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1998

18 Trad 40m, 2
5 lphigenia

Lots of good stuff on this route. The final tower is intimidating and bold on poor rock, but you can avoid this by stepping left and up to chains.

Start: Start at the chimney between Iphigenia Buttress and 'Clytemnaestra Buttress' (ie start as for Clytemnaestra).

  1. 30m (17) Up initial chimney then the shallow steep groove on L, over 2 overhangs to ledge.

  2. 15m (16) Start on the left, or with some bold moves on the right, to gain the slender tower above, brittle rock, to airy exit.

FA: Reg Williams & Peter Jackson, 2000

17 Trad 45m, 2
6 Clytemnaestra

The slick chimney.

Start: Start at the chimney between the Iphigenia Buttress and the 'Clytemnaestra Buttress'.

FA: Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1964

12 Trad 45m
7 Hermione

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1998

16 Trad 40m, 2
8 Clytemnaestra Buttress

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 20m (11) Up C for 20m to the shelf.

  2. 22m (11) R then through tricky overhang and onwards.

FA: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965

10 Trad 45m, 2

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
10 Clytemnaestra Buttress Trad 45m, 2
12 Clytemnaestra Trad 45m
13 Muldoon Trad 42m, 2
16 Hermione Trad 40m, 2
17 lphigenia Trad 45m, 2
18 The Iliad Connection Trad 40m, 2
23 Curved Air Trad 10m
25 Fail Safe Mixed 10m, 3