Route Grade Style Popularity
Nanga Parbat Solo
Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.
Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards '
FA: Mike Law, solo, 1982
No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up '
Crows in the Snow'.
Start: Start between
NPS and CitS.
FA: George Fieg, Dave Gray, 1992
Crows in the Snow
Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.
Start: Start on the L side of '
Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.
FA: Paul Tattersall, Chris Shepherd, 1982
FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson), 1982
Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26.
Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!
FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1983
Direct finish to '
FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006
Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.
Start: Start a few m L of '
Agamemnon', at a little arete.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Little, 1979
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981
An exciting face climb that is very sustained.
Start: Start as for GG.
FA: Mike Law, Mark Moorhead, 1981
If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976
Wizard of lce
Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.
Start: Start just left of '
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, 1975
A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.
Now has a 30m rap station
FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1964
Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.
Start: Start up inside the '
Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.
FA: Chris Shepherd, Stuart Hickson, 1982
Height of Fashion
Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.
Start: Start just R of M.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982
Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.
Start: Start 5m R of A.
15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.
30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.
FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966
FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973
Originally said to be 50m - maybe he downclimbed as well! A great looking face - so either the moves are crap, or the ethics police vetoed stars for a bolted route.
Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.
FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992
Good, sustained route.
Start: Start a few metres R of E.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977
Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.
Start: Start as for T.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1981
Love That Pain
Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.
Start: Start around R from T.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1985
Left curving crack with a few nice jams.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967
The thin crack, careful of the loose block.
Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1978
Almost Completely Worthless
What's in a name?
Start: Start: Right of '
Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.
FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1998
Running From the Martian
The crack R of a bush.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: S. Madoc, Sam Blainey, 1990
Suck Got Sick
Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.
Start: Start as for RftM.
FA: Sam Blainey, S Madoc, 1990
What Is and What Should Never Be
Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.
Start: Walk up the gully R of the '
Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the ' Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.
FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey, Jacquie Snow, 1991
Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.
Start: Start as for C.
25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.
15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1998