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Description

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles,The Atridae Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

Walk L to the rap anchors above Muldoon (35m abseil). Or go R along the cliff top and down the gully

There are rap stations at the top of Collision Course and Female Friends (30m abseils).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law & solo, 1982

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg & Dave Gray, 1992

Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.

Poor rock and gear.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.

FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26 with fewer bolts and no stick-clip.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.

Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976

Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982

Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start: Start just R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

Start: Start 5m R of A.

  1. 15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.

  2. 30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

Good, sustained route.

Start: Start a few metres R of E.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977

Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start as for T.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1978

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Start: Start as for RftM.

FA: Sam Blainey & S Madoc, 1990

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991

Activity

Check out what is happening in Agamemnon Area.