Agamemnon Area All trad climbing25 routes in cliff
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The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.
Poor rock and gear.
Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.
FA: Paul Tattersall & Chris Shepherd, 1982
FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan & Malcolm Matheson), 1982
Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26.
Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!
FA: Mike Law & Ian Anger, 1983
Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.
Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Geoff Little, 1979
An exciting face climb that is very sustained.
Start: Start as for GG.
FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1981
If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.
Start: Start as for WoI.
FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman & Glenn Tempest, 1976
Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.
Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1975
A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station
FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964
Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.
Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Stuart Hickson, 1982
Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.
Start: Start just R of M.
FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982
Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.
Start: Start 5m R of A.
15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.
30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.
FA: Roland Pauligk & Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966
FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973
Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.
Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.
FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992
Good, sustained route.
Start: Start a few metres R of E.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glenn Tempest, 1977
Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.
Start: Start as for T.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1981
Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.
Start: Start around R from T.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Steve Monks, 1985
The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.
FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014
Left curving crack with a few nice jams.
FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967
The thin crack, careful of the loose block.
Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1978
What's in a name?
Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.
FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1998
The crack R of a bush.
Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.
FA: S. Madoc & Sam Blainey, 1990
Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.
Start: Start as for RftM.
FA: Sam Blainey & S Madoc, 1990
Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.
Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.
FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey & Jacquie Snow, 1991