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Description

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Descent Notes

Walk L to the rap anchors above Muldoon (35m abseil). Or go R along the cliff top and down the gully

There are rap stations at the top of Collision Course and Female Friends (30m abseils).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
20 Nanga Parbat Solo Trad 10m

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law, solo, 1982

2
26 Raven Mixed 12m, 1

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg, Dave Gray, 1992

3
23 * Crows in the Snow Trad 20m

Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.

Poor rock and gear.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.

FA: Paul Tattersall, Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson), 1982

4
25 Gay Olympics Mixed 20m, 3

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1983

5
25 ** Golden Gaytime Mixed 30m, 3

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

6
22 ** Collision Course Trad 50m

Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.

Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Little, 1979

7
23 Guessing Game Mixed 40m, 3

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF and keeps traversing across to CC. Superceded by FF.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981

8
24 ** Female Friends Mixed 45m, 5

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law, Mark Moorhead, 1981

9
15 Smooth Journey Trad 44m

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976

10
20 *** Wizard of lce Trad 40m

Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, 1975

11
11 *** Agamemnon Trad 40m

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1964

12
24 Madness Mixed 15m, 1

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Stuart Hickson, 1982

13
28 Height of Fashion Trad 20m

Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start: Start just R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

14
19 * Electra Trad 45m

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

Start: Start 5m R of A.

  1. 15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.

  2. 30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

15
24 Mixed Blessing Mixed 50m, 4

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

16
19 * Telemachus Trad 50m

Good, sustained route.

Start: Start a few metres R of E.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

17
24 R * Telemachus Direct Trad 50m

Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start as for T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1981

18
27 Love That Pain Mixed 40m, 1

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1985

19
22 Love that comfort Trad 24m

The start of Love That Pain, escaping up Necrophiliac. The rock is a bit dodgy at the start and the gear is fiddly but the climbing is OK.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2014

20
15 * Necrophilliac Trad 25m

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

21
17 Cruxless Knickers Trad 25m

The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1978

22

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1998

23

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc, Sam Blainey, 1990

24
17 Suck Got Sick Trad 15m

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Start: Start as for RftM.

FA: Sam Blainey, S Madoc, 1990

25

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey, Jacquie Snow, 1991

26
16 * Hermione Trad 40m

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1998