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Agamemnon Area 25 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 31m
  • Style: All Trad
  • Ascents: 808

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Description:

The area uphill and to the R of Muldoon.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Descent Notes:

Walk L to the rap anchors above Muldoon (35m abseil). Or go R along the cliff top and down the gully

There are rap stations at the top of Collision Course and Female Friends (30m abseils).

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Nanga Parbat Solo

Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Start: Start R of C at a little gully heading towards 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Mike Law, solo, 1982

20
Trad 10m
2 Raven

No bridging onto the opposite wall! BR, fixed wire, and then the crack. You can add to the fun by finishing up 'Crows in the Snow'.

Start: Start between NPS and CitS.

FA: George Fieg, Dave Gray, 1992

26
Mixed 12m , 1
3 * Crows in the Snow

Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Presumably you have to finish up some other route to get off.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Collision Course' Wall, beneath a short, L curving flake.

FA: Paul Tattersall, Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: (described finish added by Kim Carrigan, Malcolm Matheson), 1982

23
Trad 20m
4 Gay Olympics

Thin face climbing and a dyno, nice! Originally given 26.

Start: Start just right of the odd U bolts - use the stick clip!

FA: Mike Law, Ian Anger, 1983

25
Mixed 20m , 3
5 ** Golden Gaytime

Direct finish to 'Gay Olympics'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2006

25
Mixed 30m , 3
6 ** Collision Course

Little arete to striking large holes under roof. Move left until roof can be breached at obvious under clings, then up face, left past old peg on the right, then drifting left and up till the arete is reached, then back right up face to rap anchors.

Start: Start a few m L of 'Agamemnon', at a little arete.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Geoff Little, 1979

22
Trad 50m
7 Guessing Game

Reachy.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead (variant by Mike Law), 1981

23
Mixed 40m , 3
8 ** Female Friends

An exciting face climb that is very sustained.

Start: Start as for GG.

FA: Mike Law, Mark Moorhead, 1981

24
Mixed 45m , 5
9 Smooth Journey

If it weren't for the scrappy finish and the intermittent bee problems, this excellent traverse would get 2 stars.

Start: Start as for WoI.

FA: Joe Friend, John Chapman, Glenn Tempest, 1976

15
Trad 44m
10 *** Wizard of lce

Slick offwidthing with a good thrutch factor thrown in.

Start: Start just left of 'Agamemnon'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law, 1975

20
Trad 40m
11 *** Agamemnon

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed. Now has a 30m rap station

FA: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie, 1964

11
Trad 40m
12 Madness

Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Start: Start up inside the 'Agamemnon' chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Stuart Hickson, 1982

24
Mixed 15m , 1
13 Height of Fashion

Up the thin crack to PR, with difficulty to good flake, then another hard move up L. Move R to easier climbing.

Start: Start just R of M.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

28
Trad 20m
14 * Electra

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966.

Start: Start 5m R of A.

  1. 15m (19) The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress.

  2. 30m (19) Up the dwindling crack, then step R and up, careful of the rock up higher.

FA: Roland Pauligk, Ann Pauligk (1 aid point on p1), 1966

FFA: (Bryden Allen), 1973

19
Trad 45m
15 Mixed Blessing

Originally said to be 50m - maybe he downclimbed as well! A great looking face - so either the moves are crap, or the ethics police vetoed stars for a bolted route.

Start: Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

FA: Hugh Widdowson, 1992

24
Mixed 50m , 4
16 * Telemachus

Good, sustained route.

Start: Start a few metres R of E.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

19
Trad 50m
17 * Telemachus Direct

Up T's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top.

Start: Start as for T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1981

24 R
Trad 50m
18 Love That Pain

Rightwards crack to rest, L into hanging groove (BR), orange wall then L arete.

Start: Start around R from T.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks, 1985

27
Mixed 40m , 1
19 Necrophilliac

Left curving crack with a few nice jams.

FA: Phillip Stranger, 1967

15
Trad 25m
20 Cruxless Knickers

The thin crack, careful of the loose block.

Start: Start 1m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, 1978

18
Trad 25m
21 Almost Completely Worthless

What's in a name?

Start: Start: Right of 'Cruxless Knickers' is a box corner.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1998

18
Trad 10m
22 Running From the Martian

The crack R of a bush.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Necrophiliac'.

FA: S. Madoc, Sam Blainey, 1990

16
Trad 15m
23 Suck Got Sick

Up RftM then juggy traverse R around arete.

Start: Start as for RftM.

FA: Sam Blainey, S Madoc, 1990

17
Trad 15m
24 What Is and What Should Never Be

Great song, but the name is wasted on this route.

Start: Walk up the gully R of the 'Atridae' then back over the top to find a gully behind the 'Atridae'. You are looking for the middle of a bulging orange wall on the "lefthand side" (whatever direction that may be!) of the gully, 30m up from a detached pillar.

FA: Andrew White, Sam Blainey, Jacquie Snow, 1991

18
Trad 12m
25 * Hermione

Sounds like its worth a star so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start as for C.

  1. 25m (16) As for CB until below the overhang. Now pull through the overhang at the deep crack just R of the arete. Belay at ledge just above.

  2. 15m (16) Up the L edge of the buttress, with better moves and rock than on CB.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1998

16
Trad 40m