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Description:© (willmonks)

This attractive face has an unfortunate history of ugly bolting efforts. Originally festooned with hangerless machine bolts, a recent rebolting effort turned it into a highly unfortunate example of what ringbolts look like when they're not properly recessed.

Start: Start beneath the appealing orange face, only a few metres R of the arbitrary end of 'Lois Lane Wall'.

  1. 22m (18) Straight up past lots of bolts (5??), then follow the slight ramp up R (cams needed) to a lower-off where the arete meets the roof. The LHV (19) instead goes diagonally leftwards through the white rock to escape off left of the rooves.

  2. 20m (18) Not as good as pitch 1 and rarely done these days. Up steep wall on the R for 7m then L to arete and up.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Mike Stone & Peter Watling, 1975

  • First Ascent: (LHV Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton), 1977

Location:  

Located in Atridae approx:
Long/Lat: 141.846203,-36.762109

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

18 Principal
18 * Arapiles, Selected Climbs
18 * * ACA Route Register
18 * A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 55%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good lovely nice awesome scary runout reachy polished traverse slabby balancy

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