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Description:© (koala)

Tricky start then R through bulges, finishing just L of Muldoon's final arete. It's good to do in two pitches to reduce rope drag and to better protect the second from a groundfall off the bouldery start. Rather than the long scramble approach, you can also approach up the short tough finger crack a few metres L of the start of 'Muldoon'.

Start: Start 2m R of 'Tantalus'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1986

Location:  

Located in House of Atreus approx:
Long/Lat: 141.845663,-36.762238

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
17 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 70%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid overhung crux sustained difficult tough hard fun nice fantastic good amazing great lovely classic superb awesome pleasant incredible super perfect exciting enjoyable scary terrifying exposed committing steep feet easy rest jugs fist traverse

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