Bluff Major Mostly Trad climbing55 routes in crag
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From ground level, just watching climbers high up on 'Scorpion' or 'Quo Vadis' will make your pulse quicken dramatically. 'Bluff Major' has three main areas: the north-facing 'Blockbuster' Wall, parallel to 'Tiger Wall' below it; the west-facing 'Missing Link' Wall, facing inwards to the ridge; and the south-facing 'Thunder Crack' Wall, high above 'Morfydd' Wall.
Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area© (koala)
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
You can access routes 23-56 (e.g. 'Thunder Crack' and 'Missing' Link) by climbing Ali's (or by climbing any route on 'Morfydd' Wall) and then continuing to scramble up Ali's beneath the steep south face of the 'Bluffs'. On the other hand, routes 1-22 (everything on the north face) are best accessed by going through Ali's cave then walking along Flinders Lane. Routes 11-22 (e.g. 'Blockbuster' and Scorpion) start from 'Blockbuster' Ledge, this ledge being accessed via any of the lower routes (routes 1-10).© (koala)
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
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