First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question


The face visible from below Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park


Climb Ivan or one of the other routes on Flinders Lane.

Descent notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
19 R TKO Trad 30m

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

FA: Ed Neve & Chris O'Brien, 1975

11 *** Blockbuster Trad 30m

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: 1964

22 The Cat's Whiskers Trad 30m

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1993

11 Whiskers Trad 30m

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & ANdrew Smith, 1966

17 Breau Bummel Trad 30m

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Bowman, 1973

21 ** Jenny Wren Mixed 30m, 1

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Mike Stone, Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1976

21 ** Jenny Wren DS Mixed 4

Jenny Ren Retro bolted with direct start up the arete, This is the usual way to do the route these days

23 * Quo Vadis DF Trad 8m

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

FA: Simon Mentz, Stuart Williams & Jared McCulloch, 1990

20 *** Quo Vadis Mixed 33m, 1

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a crappy bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

27 Taylor Made Mixed 30m, 4

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990

20 * Goodbye To All That Mixed 35m, 2, 3

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

  1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

  2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1988

18 *** Scorpion Trad 30m

A great adventure that you will savour for many years.

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone & John Moore with two points of aid., 1966

23 ** Kama Sutra Mixed 42m, 2, 2

Start: Start as for S. You can also approach by traversing in from the R, from the base of 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

  1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof R of the 'Scorpion' chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

  2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing 'Goodbye To All That'.

19 *** Kama Sutra Pitch 2 Trad 35m


Check out what is happening in Bluff Major East Face.