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Description

The face visible from below Tiger Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Climb Ivan or one of the other routes on Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 R TKO Trad 30m

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris O'Brien, 1975

2
11 *** Blockbuster Trad 30m

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: 1964

3
22 The Cat's Whiskers Trad 30m

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1993

4
11 Whiskers Trad 30m

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, ANdrew Smith, 1966

5
17 Breau Bummel Trad 30m

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1973

6
21 * Jenny Wren Mixed 30m, 1

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Mike Stone, Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

7
23 * Quo Vadis DF Trad 8m

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

FA: Simon Mentz, Stuart Williams, Jared McCulloch, 1990

8
20 *** Quo Vadis Mixed 33m, 1

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a crappy bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

9
27 Taylor Made Mixed 30m, 4

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

10
20 * Goodbye To All That Mixed 35m, 3

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

  1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

  2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

11
18 *** Scorpion Trad 30m

A great adventure that you will savour for many years.

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, John Moore with two points of aid., 1966

12
23 ** Kama Sutra Mixed 42m, 2

Start: Start as for S. You can also approach by traversing in from the R, from the base of 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

  1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof R of the 'Scorpion' chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

  2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing 'Goodbye' to All That.

13
19 ** Kama Sutra Pitch 2 Trad 35m