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The wall that overlooks Central Gully. It faces a lot more south than it does west, making it one of the best hot day options at Arapiles, but the confusing convention of calling it the west face just won't die.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link. Please don't toprope directly through the quick-clip anchors as they see a lot of traffic.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out. Start L of 'Station to Station'. The bolt has been replaced, but the first gear is a fair way off the ground.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.

FA: Gordon Poultney

Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

Start 2m L of Thunder Crack. Up to strenno corner (2BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past BR and frightening mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Jeff Lamb (starting up TC), 1980

Start as for Station to Station. Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better.

FA: Zac Vertrees

The obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of 'Bluff Major'. Wander up the crack to the top.

FA: Ian Guild & Mike Stone, 1965

Start just R of Thunder Crack. Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980

Start as for D. Up 'Despatched' to it's first traverse. From here, traverse R all the way to 'Bulger'. Take heaps of RPs.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Col Reece, 1980

Start at the base of Thunder Crack. Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

FA: Matt Taylor & John Chapman, 1976

Start down R of D. Slim groove with 2 bolts, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join 'Despatched'.

FA: Nick White & Kelly Lenglet, 1991

The unclimbed line of bolts.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'. Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Start 15m down R of Thunder Crack. Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break and lower-offs. The pro is not great.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Start at the top of 'Unrequited'. Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Start just R of 'Unrequited'. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

FA: Ingvar Lidman

Link Required into Requited.

FA: Nathan Hoette

Start 5m R of Unrequited. Bouldery past the bolt.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Start as for Recent Theft.

  1. 30m (23) Up RT to it's bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of 'Bulger' p2.

  2. 30m (25) Up past 3 bolts to technical corner then a good rest on the R. Breach last bulge by going up from bolt before going left onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt can be done as a grade 20 LHF to 'Bulger'.

FA: Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991

Start down R from Recent Theft.

  1. 30m (13) Short wall to ledge, and step R. The next section, up the peapod corner and then some face moves rightwards, is great. Easy ground leads 15m up and left to a large ledge. This pitch is actually borrowed from Lock-Up; Bulger originally started further up left, 5m R of Unrequited, and traversed in to climb the not-as-good rambly pedestal.

  2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

FA: Reg Williams & Chris Baxter, 1965

Climb Bulger pitch 2 for 6m then move L to rusty bolt. Apparently you then go a metre or 2 up the mossy thin flakes above the bolt, before joining the arête. Its tempting to traverse 3m left from the bolt on much cleaner rock but this is significantly harder than grade 20 and tends to lead you into Despatched pitch 2 rather than onto the arête.

FA: Simon Mentz

Start 4m R of B. The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1980

Start as for 'Keyhole'. As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

FA: Ed Neve & Chris Baxter, 1974

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

FA: Chris Baxter & Chris O'Brien, 1975

Start about 50m uphill from John's Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the Bluffs which divides Bluff Major and Bluff Minor. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto Blockbuster Ledge.

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984


Check out what is happening in Bluff Major West Face.