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Description

The wall that overlooks Central Gully.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
23 R Blah Blah Blah Mixed 35m, 1

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out.

Start: Start L of 'Station to Station'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

2
28 * On the Prowl Sport 20m

The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.

FA: Gordon Poultney

3
26 * The Prow Mixed 30m, 6

As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

4
25 ** Station to Station Mixed 30m, 2

Up to strenno corner (BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR.

Start: Start 2m L of TC.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (starting up TC), 1980

5
27 *** FinaI Departure Mixed 30m, 5

Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

6

Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better.

FA: Zac Vertrees

7
20 *** Thunder Crack Trad 30m

Wander up the crack to the top.

Start: Start under the obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of 'Bluff Major'.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, 1965

8
24 *** Despatched Mixed 40m, 2

Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off.

Start: Start just R of TC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980

9
23 *** Despatched Direct Trad 40m
10
23 ** Missus Abeat Mixed 30m, 2

Up 'Despatched' to it's first traverse. From here, traverse R all the way to 'Bulger'. Take heaps of RPs.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece, 1980

11
14 Lightning Crack Trad 30m

Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

Start: Start at the base of TC.

FA: Matt Taylor, John Chapman, 1976

12

Slimg groove with 2 bolts, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join 'Despatched'.

Start: Start down R of D.

FA: Nick White, Kelly Lenglet, 1991

13

The unclimbed line of bolts.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

14
26 Veneer Sport 15m, 4

Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start: Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

15
22 R * Unrequited Trad 20m

Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break. The pro is not great.

Start: Start 15m down R of TC.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

16
27 ** Requited Sport 35m

Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

Start: Start at the top of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

17
28 ** Required Sport 15m, 3

A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Start: Start just R of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

18
30 ** Expired Sport

FA: Nathan Hoette

19
26 Recent Theft Mixed 20m, 1

Bouldery past the bolt.

Start: Start 5m R of U.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

20
25 * Lust Mixed 60m, 5

Start: Start as for RT.

  1. 30m (23) Up RT to it's bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of 'Bulger' p2.

  2. 30m (25) Up past 3 bolts to technical corner. Now back L past bolt onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt can be done as a grade 20 LHF to 'Bulger'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

21
15 ** Bulger Trad 60m

Start: Start down R from RT.

  1. 30m (-) Traverse R then up pedestal, then go up R to an easy corner to a ledge.

  2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

FA: Reg Williams, Chris Baxter, 1965

22
20 * Lust in the Dust Trad 30m
23
22 Bulger DS Trad

The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

Start: Start 4m R of B.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1980

24
19 Dire Straights Trad 30m

As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start: Start as for 'Keyhole'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris Baxter, 1974

25
19 R Castles in the Air Trad 20m

If you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien, 1975

26
10 ** The Keyhole Trad 25m

Start about 50m uphill from John\'s Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the 'Bluffs' which divides 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor'. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto 'Blockbuster' Ledge.

27
13 Lock-up Trad 16m

As for TK then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

Start: Start as for 'The Keyhole' (which is described on the 'Bluff Minor' page and is the major cleft on the south face of the 'Bluffs' dividing 'Bluff Major' from Bluff Minor).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984