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description
The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great. Start in the middle of the West face of Bluff Major, where the ground is at it's highest point. Finish direct to chains on R side of summit boulder, or slightly easier to L side of boulder. Please don't toprope direct off the chains as they see a lot of traffic.
Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.
Route history
| 27 Aug 1965 | First ascent: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton) |
|---|---|
| 1975 | Notable ascent:
Ann Pauligk Ann Pauligk's bold early-mid 1970s ascent may have been the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. |
Warnings
Location
- Lat/Lon: -36.75707, 141.84447
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Grade citation
| 17 R | Assigned grade |
| ★★★Justin Wimmer | |
| 16 [16 - 17] -- | grAId |
| 17 | ★★ A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite |
| 17 | ★★★ Arapiles, Selected Climbs |
| 17 | ★★★ RockGUIDE: Victoria |
ethic
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Seasonality
Quality
Overall quality 81 from 311 ratings.
Difficulty - 17
Based on 10 ratings.
Suggested Grade
Based on 10 ratings.
Tick Types
Comment keywords
Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780987526427
This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.
Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter
Date: 2013
ISBN: 9780987087461
444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!
Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson
Date: 2011
ISBN: 9780646529387
Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Photos Browse all photos
Jon Chapel on ★★★ Missing Link 17 R
/2d/c5/2dc5e9113cbef306a917e63eb3057e09c3f991d0)
★★★ Missing Link 17 R - 20230406_110934.jpg
Devan Johnson on ★★★ Missing Link 17 R
★★★ Missing Link 17 R - 20230406_110613.jpg
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