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Description:© (willmonks)

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great.

Start: Start in the middle of the West face of 'Bluff Major', where the ground is at it's highest point.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson & Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton), 1965


Located in Bluff Major North Face approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757372,141.844572

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 R Community registered grade
17 R ** ** ACA Route Register
17 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 *** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 *** RockGUIDE: Victoria

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained hard fun cool nice good sweet great lovely wicked classic awesome super beautiful rad brilliant exciting enjoyable runout tricky terrifying ground fall dangerous committing scary fall rest awkward technical balancy short face easy crap bad traverse fiddly

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Check out what is happening on Missing Link (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.