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John's Pinnacle 13 routes in Cliff

  • Avg. Height: 23m
  • Style: All Trad
  • Ascents: 101
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Description:©

Large block perched above 'Ali's'. If it's windy it will be very windy here.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:©

Easiest would be to climb 'Ali's', but you could also do any of the routes on 'Morfydd Wall', 'Bard Buttress' or 'Under Flinders Lane Wall' and then squeeze through Ali Babas Cave.

Descent Notes:©

Abseil from ring bolts on N side.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Well established

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:
Quartzite

Some content has been provided under license from: © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 * Allez

Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a BR on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start: Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

24
Mixed 25m , 2
2 Atomic Fusion

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26
Mixed 25m , 3
3 Homegrown

Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start: Start at the arete just R of 'Allez'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger, 1980

23
Mixed 25m , 1
4 Flappers' Delight

Up the juggy wall.

Start: Start on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to 'Denim' Wall.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson, 1965

4
Trad 16m
5 Nostalgia

Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Start: Start on the west face of the Pinnacle.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23
Mixed 20m , 1
6 Piggy in the Middle

Up S for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1986

23
Mixed 27m , 1
7 Shoadee

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

14
Trad 24m
8 Let Me Cry

Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.

Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1985

25 X
Trad 30m
9 * Shalimar

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

18
Trad 31m
10 Shanghai
18
Trad 30m
11 I'll Nail You

Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

25 X
Trad 17m
12 The Invisible Hand

From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with 'Shalimar' and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Let Me Cry'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

24 R
Trad 26m
13 Handle with Care

Start: \"Start variant 2m right left of 'Let Me Cry'\" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

23 R
Trad 8m
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