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Table of contents

1. Denim Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad
Description:

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vixen

Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up 'Denim' for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

22Trad 45m
2 ** Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988

26Mixed 35m, 5
3 ** Denim

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968

26Mixed 45m, 2
4 ** London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

27Mixed 30m, 3
5 ** Balance of Power

Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes (no anchor).

Start: Start R of LC.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

29Mixed 30m, 5
6 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette

31Mixed 30m, 7
7 See You Round

Very tough at the grade.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

26Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
22 Vixen Trad 45m
26 ** Concise Exercise Mixed 35m, 5
** Denim Mixed 45m, 2
See You Round Trad 20m
27 ** London Calling Mixed 30m, 3
29 ** Balance of Power Mixed 30m, 5
31 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish Mixed 30m, 7