A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.
- Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
- Ethic: inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976
FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988
"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.
Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in the 80's - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear.
Start: Start on the L side of the wall.
FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968
FFA: Kim Carrigan, Eddy Ozols, 1979
Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).
Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.
FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981
Balance of Power
Bolts are mostly rusty and should not be trusted. Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes. Lower off.
Start: Start R of LC.
FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993
Balance of Power Direct Finish
Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.
Start: Start as for BoP.
FA: Nathan Hoette
See You Round
A very tough crux down low.
Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.
FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981
Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess.
FA: @duglash, 13th Dec
|See You Round||20m|
|29||Balance of Power||518m,|
|31||Balance of Power Direct Finish||730m,|