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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Will Monks Steve Andrew Connolly Nick Cormack Gareth Llewellin Matt Adams

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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Table of contents

1. Denim Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
1 Vixen

Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up 'Denim' for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

22
Trad 45m
2 ** Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988

26
Mixed 35m , 5
Hide
RouteGradeStylePopularitySelected ascents
3 ** Denim

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968

26
Mixed 45m , 2
Nick Cormack 3 years ago

Pre-Placed gear. Steep finger locks not my style. Worked really hard to get it and stuffed two fi...

Gareth Llewellin 9 years ago

3 shots, 2 with one fall. Last day of my trip Doh! next time...One of the best 26's I've been on.

4 ** London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

27
Mixed 30m , 3
Steve 13 years ago

Interesting no-hander. 3rd try in a day.

5 ** Balance of Power

Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes (no anchor).

Start: Start R of LC.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

29
Mixed 30m , 5
6 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette,

31
Mixed 30m , 7
7 See You Round

Very tough at the grade.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

26
Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
22 Vixen Trad 45m
26 ** Concise Exercise Mixed 35m , 5
** Denim Mixed 45m , 2
See You Round Trad 20m
27 ** London Calling Mixed 30m , 3
29 ** Balance of Power Mixed 30m , 5
31 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish Mixed 30m , 7