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Description

The eastern half of the bluffs.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Scramble through Alis Baba's cave (right of Denim Wall) and up.

Descent Notes

Down climb the short wall facing the gap and around R.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 * Bluff Minor Trad 55m

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor, Reg Williams, 1965

2
21 X Violent Crumble Trad 15m

Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start: Start 2m R of the north arete of 'Bluff Minor' (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

3
-- R ** Boston's Climb Trad 30m

Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of 'Bluff Major', with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

Start: Start on top of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1960s, 2000

4
7 * Mouse Trad 45m
5
22 Locksmith Trad 42m
Start 5m R of 'Bulger' DS. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

6
22 * Raison d'Etrier Trad 30m

Start: Start on the ledge R of 'Locksmith' (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

  1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

  2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

7
22 Dead and Buried Trad 30m

Start just R of Rd\'E, and as for 'Vixen' pitch 2.

  1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of 'Vixen' then move L to belay.

  2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb, 1981

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris SHepherd, 1982

8
7 Mouse Trad 45m

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966