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This is actually the lower tier of Bluffs Major east face but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park


Via Ali Baba's cave (R of Denim Wall), or climb a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Descent Notes

Traverse off R.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
21 R Sneaky Feelings Trad 12m

A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start: Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1980

25 Modern Lovers Mixed 15m, 1

Thin corner with a bolt.

Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Glenn Tempest, 1981

23 Dancing Days Trad 45m 3

Start: Start 1m R of ML.

  1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

  2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

  3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

24 Tahini Trad 10m

Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start: Start 3m R of DD.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

M3 Inquisition Aid 20m, 1

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

20 Crazy Diamond Trad 15m

Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start: Start at the anchor above 'Inquisition'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder & Rod Young, 1979

21 Being There Trad 15m

Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

21 Welcome Home Trad 15m

Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trendng R then L.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981

18 * Aristocrat Trad 25m

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore & Phillip Stranger, 1966

22 R The Last Laugh Mixed 25m, 1

Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, 4m R of the major cleft between 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor' (the cleft itself being 'Aristocrat' (18) which is described under the 'Bluff Minor' area).

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981

24 Beaurocrat Trad

Bolt/s and roof L of Abdul

FA: Malcolm Matheson

12 Abdul Trad 12m

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing.

Start: Start at the far L end of the ledge.

13 Ivan Trad 14m

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

18 Heart of a Dog Trad 12m

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992


The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland & Anne Pauligk, 1966

24 R * Moving Pictures Trad 15m

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

30 * Stop-Motion Trad 20m

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two

FA: Dave Jones

22 *** Scorpion Corner Trad 25m

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Start: Start at the R facing corner, directly below 'Scorpion'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Ed Neve, 1974

25 R Imagination LHF Trad 10m

The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Start: Start as for I.

FA: Chris Peisker, 2000

25 * Imagination Trad 20m

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

26 Imagination DS Mixed 8m, 1

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984


Check out what is happening in Flinders Lane Area.