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Flinders Lane Area

Seasonality

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Description

This is actually the lower tier of Bluff Minor & Major east faces, but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Via Ali Baba's cave (R of Denim Wall), or scramble/rap down from Missing Link.

Descent notes

Traverse off R to rap anchor above Scorpion Corner.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of Bluff Minor. A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young, 1980

Thin corner with a bolt 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Glenn Tempest, 1981

1m R of ML.

  1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

  2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

  3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

Start 3m R of DD. Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

Start above Tahini, 6m L of Aristocrat (which is described in the Bluff Major section). The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at Arapiles. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

Start at the anchor above Inquisition. Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder & Rod Young, 1979

Start as for CD. Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Start as for CD. Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trending R then L.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates Bluff Minor and Bluff Major. Climb the chimney/corner.

FA: John Moore & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Start 4m R of Aristocrat. Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Chris Shepherd, 1981

Bolt/s and roof L of Abdul.

FA: Malcolm Matheson

Chimney that can be bridged without any grim climbing. Start at the far L end of the ledge.

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

FA: Unknown, 2000

Start 2m R of I. The face, leading into I near the top.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to Scorpion but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the Blockbuster Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17. Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland & Anne Pauligk, 1966

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Direct start to Moving Pictures past a rusty bolt or two.

FA: Dave Jones

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Ed Neve, 1974

Links Scorpion Corner into Scorpion, possibly the way Hot Henry Barber did it. For full value and the full tick don't step onto the ledge at the top of Scorpion Corner but instead go through the steep roof crack on good jams to enter Scorpion after the step across.

Start as for I then the unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

FA: Chris Peisker

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Start just R of SC. Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Matisse, Amy & PLC girls, 23 Nov 2016

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If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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