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Table of contents

1. Flinders Lane Area 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad
Description:

This is actually the lower tier of Bluffs Major east face but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting October-December 2014 Cassandra Eurydice Raptors are nesting on these climbs. Please avoid the climbs until the young leave the nest (mid-December).

State Park

Approach:

Via Ali Baba's cave (R of Denim Wall), or climb a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Descent Notes:

Traverse off R.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sneaky Feelings

A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start: Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1980

21 RTrad 12m
2 Modern Lovers

Thin corner with a bolt.

Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest, 2000

25Mixed 15m, 1
3 Dancing Days

Start: Start 1m R of ML.

  1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

  2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

  3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

23Trad 45m
4 Tahini

Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start: Start 3m R of DD.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

24Trad 10m
5 Inquisition

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

M3Aid 20m, 1
6 Crazy Diamond

Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start: Start at the anchor above 'Inquisition'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder, Rod Young, 1979

20Trad 15m
7 Being There

Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

21Trad 15m
8 Welcome Home

Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trendng R then L.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

21Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Aristocrat

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1966

18Trad 25m
10 The Last Laugh

Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, 4m R of the major cleft between 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor' (the cleft itself being 'Aristocrat' (18) which is described under the 'Bluff Minor' area).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

22 RMixed 25m, 1
11 Abdul

The foul thrutchy chimney.

Start: Start at the far L end of the ledge.

12Trad 12m
12 Ivan

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 14m
13 Heart of a Dog

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

18Trad 12m
14 Scorpion Direct Start

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland and Anne Pauligk, 1966

17Trad 14m
15 * Moving Pictures

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

24 RTrad 15m
16 * Stop-Motion 30Trad 20m
17 *** Scorpion Corner

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Start: Start at the R facing corner, directly below 'Scorpion'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ed Neve, 1974

22Trad 25m
18 Imagination LHF

The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Start: Start as for I.

FA: Chris Peisker, 2000

XTrad 10m
19 * Imagination

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25Trad 20m
20 Imagination DS

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Mixed 8m, 1

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
12 Abdul Trad 12m
13 Ivan Trad 14m
17 Scorpion Direct Start Trad 14m
18 * Aristocrat Trad 25m
Heart of a Dog Trad 12m
20 Crazy Diamond Trad 15m
21 Being There Trad 15m
Sneaky Feelings Trad 12m
Welcome Home Trad 15m
22 *** Scorpion Corner Trad 25m
The Last Laugh Mixed 25m, 1
23 Dancing Days Trad 45m
24 * Moving Pictures Trad 15m
Tahini Trad 10m
25 * Imagination Trad 20m
Modern Lovers Mixed 15m, 1
26 Imagination DS Mixed 8m, 1
30 * Stop-Motion Trad 20m
? Imagination LHF Trad 10m
M3 Inquisition Aid 20m, 1