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Table of contents

1. Bluffs 102 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 141.844569, -36.756917

Description:

Bluff Major and Bluff Minor are the two huge blocks perched above Tiger Wall.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Via Ali's or a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. John's Pinnacle 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:©

Large block perched above 'Ali's'. If it's windy it will be very windy here.

Approach:©

Easiest would be to climb 'Ali's', but you could also do any of the routes on 'Morfydd Wall', 'Bard Buttress' or 'Under Flinders Lane Wall' and then squeeze through Ali Babas Cave.

Descent Notes:©

Abseil from ring bolts on N side.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Allez

Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a BR on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start: Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

24Mixed 25m, 2
2 Atomic Fusion

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

26Mixed 25m, 3
3 Homegrown

Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start: Start at the arete just R of 'Allez'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger, 1980

23Mixed 25m, 1
4 Flappers' Delight

Up the juggy wall.

Start: Start on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to 'Denim' Wall.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson, 1965

4Trad 16m
5 Nostalgia

Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Start: Start on the west face of the Pinnacle.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

23Mixed 20m, 1
6 Piggy in the Middle

Up S for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1986

23Mixed 27m, 1
7 Shoadee

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

14Trad 24m
8 Let Me Cry

Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.

Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1985

25 XTrad 30m
9 * Shalimar

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

18Trad 31m
10 Shanghai 18Trad 30m
11 I'll Nail You

Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

25 XTrad 17m
12 The Invisible Hand

From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with 'Shalimar' and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Let Me Cry'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

24 RTrad 26m
13 Handle with Care

Start: \"Start variant 2m right left of 'Let Me Cry'\" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

23 RTrad 8m

1.2. Denim Wall 7 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Vixen

Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up 'Denim' for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

22Trad 45m
2 ** Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988

26Mixed 35m, 5
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 ** Denim

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968

26Mixed 45m, 2
4 ** London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

27Mixed 30m, 3
5 ** Balance of Power

Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes (no anchor).

Start: Start R of LC.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

29Mixed 30m, 5
6 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette

31Mixed 30m, 7
7 See You Round

Very tough at the grade.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

26Trad 20m

1.3. Bluff Minor 8 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The eastern half of the bluffs.

Approach:

Scramble through Alis Baba's cave (right of Denim Wall) and up.

Descent Notes:

Down climb the short wall facing the gap and around R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Bluff Minor

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

  1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

  2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

  3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor, Reg Williams, 1965

12Trad 55m
2 Violent Crumble

Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start: Start 2m R of the north arete of 'Bluff Minor' (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

21 XTrad 15m
3 ** Boston's Climb

Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of 'Bluff Major', with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

Start: Start on top of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1960s, 2000

-- RTrad 30m
4 * Mouse 7Trad 45m
5 Locksmith Start 5m R of 'Bulger' DS. 10m (20) Roof crack then go 4m R. 15m (22) Diagonally L up weakness through roof then up to ledge. 17m (18) Finish up just R of the arete to the summit of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

22Trad 42m
6 * Raison d'Etrier

Start: Start on the ledge R of 'Locksmith' (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

  1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

  2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

22Trad 30m
7 Dead and Buried

Start just R of Rd\'E, and as for 'Vixen' pitch 2.

  1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of 'Vixen' then move L to belay.

  2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb, 1981

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris SHepherd, 1982

22Trad 30m
8 Mouse

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

7Trad 45m

1.4. Flinders Lane Area 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Mostly Trad
Description:

This is actually the lower tier of Bluffs Major east face but is commonly known as the Flinders Lane Area as the routes begin on Flinders Lane, which runs along the top of Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Via Ali Baba's cave (R of Denim Wall), or climb a route on Bard Buttress or Tiger Wall.

Descent Notes:

Traverse off R.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sneaky Feelings

A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start: Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1980

21 RTrad 12m
2 Modern Lovers

Thin corner with a bolt.

Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest, 2000

25Mixed 15m, 1
3 Dancing Days

Start: Start 1m R of ML.

  1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

  2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

  3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

23Trad 45m
4 Tahini

Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start: Start 3m R of DD.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

24Trad 10m
5 Inquisition

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

M3Aid 20m, 1
6 Crazy Diamond

Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start: Start at the anchor above 'Inquisition'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder, Rod Young, 1979

20Trad 15m
7 Being There

Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

21Trad 15m
8 Welcome Home

Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trendng R then L.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

21Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
9 * Aristocrat

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1966

18Trad 25m
10 The Last Laugh

Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, 4m R of the major cleft between 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor' (the cleft itself being 'Aristocrat' (18) which is described under the 'Bluff Minor' area).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

22 RMixed 25m, 1
11 Abdul

The foul thrutchy chimney.

Start: Start at the far L end of the ledge.

12Trad 12m
12 Ivan

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

13Trad 14m
13 Heart of a Dog

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

18Trad 12m
14 Scorpion Direct Start

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland and Anne Pauligk, 1966

17Trad 14m
15 * Moving Pictures

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

24 RTrad 15m
16 * Stop-Motion 30Trad 20m
17 *** Scorpion Corner

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Start: Start at the R facing corner, directly below 'Scorpion'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ed Neve, 1974

22Trad 25m
18 Imagination LHF

The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Start: Start as for I.

FA: Chris Peisker, 2000

XTrad 10m
19 * Imagination

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

25Trad 20m
20 Imagination DS

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Mixed 8m, 1

1.5. Bluff Major 54 routes in Crag

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:© (koala)

From ground level, just watching climbers high up on 'Scorpion' or 'Quo Vadis' will make your pulse quicken dramatically. 'Bluff Major' has three main areas: the north-facing 'Blockbuster' Wall, parallel to 'Tiger Wall' below it; the west-facing 'Missing Link' Wall, facing inwards to the ridge; and the south-facing 'Thunder Crack' Wall, high above 'Morfydd' Wall.

Approach:© (koala)

You can access routes 23-56 (e.g. 'Thunder Crack' and 'Missing' Link) by climbing Ali's (or by climbing any route on 'Morfydd' Wall) and then continuing to scramble up Ali's beneath the steep south face of the 'Bluffs'. On the other hand, routes 1-22 (everything on the north face) are best accessed by going through Ali's cave then walking along Flinders Lane. Routes 11-22 (e.g. 'Blockbuster' and Scorpion) start from 'Blockbuster' Ledge, this ledge being accessed via any of the lower routes (routes 1-10).

1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad
Description:

The face visible from below Tiger Wall.

Approach:

Climb Ivan or one of the other routes on Flinders Lane.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 TKO

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris O'Brien, 1975

19 RTrad 30m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 *** Blockbuster

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: 1964

11Trad 30m
3 The Cat's Whiskers

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1993

22Trad 30m
4 Whiskers

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, ANdrew Smith, 1966

11Trad 30m
5 Breau Bummel

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1973

17Trad 30m
6 * Jenny Wren

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Mike Stone, Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

21Mixed 30m, 1
7 * Quo Vadis DF

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

FA: Simon Mentz, Stuart Williams, Jared McCulloch, 1990

23Trad 8m
8 *** Quo Vadis

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a crappy bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

20Mixed 33m, 1
9 Taylor Made

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

27Mixed 30m, 4
10 * Goodbye To All That

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

  1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

  2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

20Mixed 35m, 3
11 *** Scorpion

A great adventure that you will savour for many years.

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, John Moore with two points of aid., 1966

18Trad 30m
12 ** Kama Sutra

Start: Start as for S. You can also approach by traversing in from the R, from the base of 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

  1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof R of the 'Scorpion' chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

  2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing 'Goodbye' to All That.

23Mixed 42m, 2
13 ** Kama Sutra Pitch 2 19Trad 35m

1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face 14 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad and Unknown
Approach:

From the top of Ali's go L around John's Pinnacle then up the ramp beneath the West face.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Very Anxious

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows.

Start: Start down L of AN.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26 RTrad 20m
2 *** Anxiety Neurosis

Start: Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of 'Bluff Major'.

  1. 20m (26) Head out left past a piton and a high bolt, then step down and left to arete and onwards to ledge.

  2. 20m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top.

26Mixed 40m, 4
3 Anxiety Neurosis Original Line

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

27Unknown 20m, 2
4 ** Leaps and Bounds 30Trad 35m
5 Leaps

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads.

Start: Start as for 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

30Trad 35m
6 * Holy Moses

Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro.

Start: Start at the first belay of AN.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1981

26 RTrad 40m
7 * Anticipation

Start: Start as for 'New Diocese'.

  1. 25m (22) Up ND for 6m then traverse miles left above the roofs to belay as for 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

  2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of 'Kama Sutra', and just L of 'Holy Moses'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1981

22Trad 45m
8 ** Bounds

Follow 'Anticipation' towards AN, as far as a ledge with a bolt. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Start: Start as for 'New Diocese'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, 1984

26Mixed 35m, 2
9 ** New Diocese

Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins 'Preservative Added' about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall.

Start: Start between 'Anxiety Neurosis' and 'Missing Link', where there is a short flake above a low roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1981

25Trad 30m
10 New Diocese Direct Finish

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, boldly.

Start: Start as for ND.

FA: Roland Foster, Philby, 1984

26 RUnknown 30m
11 * Preservative Added

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time.

Start: Start as for ML.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jim Grellis, John Chapman, 1975

18Mixed 30m, 1
12 * Missing Link Direct Finish

After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder.

Start: Start as for ML.

FA: Ross Cayley, Richard Chin, 1986

17 RUnknown 30m
13 *** Missing Link

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great.

Start: Start in the middle of the West face of 'Bluff Major', where the ground is at it's highest point.

FA: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson, Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton), 1965

17 RTrad 30m
14 Dead Eye Dick

Climb the RH line, descend the LH line!

Start: Start on the slabby wall opposite 'Missing Link'.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1965

10Trad 12m

1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport
Description:

The wall that overlooks Central Gully.

Descent Notes:

25m abseil from the rap station above Missing Link.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blah Blah Blah

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out.

Start: Start L of 'Station to Station'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

23 RMixed 35m, 1
2 * On the Prowl

The steep arête right of Missing Link following three bolts up and right into the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station.

FA: Gordon Poultney

28Sport 20m
3 * The Prow

As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

26Mixed 30m, 6
4 ** Station to Station

Up to strenno corner (BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR.

Start: Start 2m L of TC.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (starting up TC), 1980

25Mixed 30m, 2
5 *** FinaI Departure

Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

27Mixed 30m, 5
6 *** Final Departure Direct Finish

Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better.

FA: Zac Vertrees

28Trad
7 *** Thunder Crack

Wander up the crack to the top.

Start: Start under the obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of 'Bluff Major'.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, 1965

20Trad 30m
8 *** Despatched

Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off.

Start: Start just R of TC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980

24Mixed 40m, 2
9 *** Despatched Direct 23Trad 40m
10 ** Missus Abeat

Up 'Despatched' to it's first traverse. From here, traverse R all the way to 'Bulger'. Take heaps of RPs.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece, 1980

23Mixed 30m, 2
11 Lightning Crack

Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

Start: Start at the base of TC.

FA: Matt Taylor, John Chapman, 1976

14Trad 30m
12 The Year of Loving Dangerously

Slimg groove with 2 bolts, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join 'Despatched'.

Start: Start down R of D.

FA: Nick White, Kelly Lenglet, 1991

26Mixed 30m, 4
13 Nick White bolt line

The unclimbed line of bolts.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

Unknown
14 Veneer

Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start: Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

26Sport 15m, 4
15 * Unrequited

Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break. The pro is not great.

Start: Start 15m down R of TC.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

22 RTrad 20m
16 ** Requited

Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

Start: Start at the top of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

27Unknown 35m
17 ** Required

A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Start: Start just R of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman

28Sport 15m, 3
18 ** Expired

FA: Nathan Hoette

30Unknown
19 Recent Theft

Bouldery past the bolt.

Start: Start 5m R of U.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Unknown 20m, 1
20 * Lust

Start: Start as for RT.

  1. 30m (23) Up RT to it's bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of 'Bulger' p2.

  2. 30m (25) Up past 3 bolts to technical corner. Now back L past bolt onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt can be done as a grade 20 LHF to 'Bulger'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

25Unknown 60m, 5
21 ** Bulger

Start: Start down R from RT.

  1. 30m (-) Traverse R then up pedestal, then go up R to an easy corner to a ledge.

  2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

FA: Reg Williams, Chris Baxter, 1965

15Trad 60m
22 * Lust in the Dust 20Trad 30m
23 Bulger DS

The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

Start: Start 4m R of B.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1980

22Unknown
24 Dire Straights

As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start: Start as for 'Keyhole'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris Baxter, 1974

19Trad 30m
25 Castles in the Air

If you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien, 1975

19 RTrad 20m
26 ** The Keyhole

Start about 50m uphill from John\'s Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the 'Bluffs' which divides 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor'. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto 'Blockbuster' Ledge.

10Trad 25m
27 Lock-up

As for TK then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

Start: Start as for 'The Keyhole' (which is described on the 'Bluff Minor' page and is the major cleft on the south face of the 'Bluffs' dividing 'Bluff Major' from Bluff Minor).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984

13Trad 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
4 Flappers' Delight Trad 16m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
7 * Mouse Trad 45m 1.3. Bluff Minor
Mouse Trad 45m 1.3. Bluff Minor
10 Dead Eye Dick Trad 12m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
** The Keyhole Trad 25m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
11 *** Blockbuster Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
Whiskers Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
12 * Bluff Minor Trad 55m 1.3. Bluff Minor
Abdul Trad 12m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
13 Ivan Trad 14m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Lock-up Trad 16m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
14 Shoadee Trad 24m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Lightning Crack Trad 30m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
15 ** Bulger Trad 60m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
17 Scorpion Direct Start Trad 14m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Breau Bummel Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
*** Missing Link Trad 30m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
* Missing Link Direct Finish Unknown 30m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
18 * Shalimar Trad 31m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Shanghai Trad 30m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
* Aristocrat Trad 25m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Heart of a Dog Trad 12m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
*** Scorpion Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
* Preservative Added Mixed 30m, 1 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
19 ** Kama Sutra Pitch 2 Trad 35m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
TKO Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
Castles in the Air Trad 20m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
Dire Straights Trad 30m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
20 Crazy Diamond Trad 15m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
* Goodbye To All That Mixed 35m, 3 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
*** Quo Vadis Mixed 33m, 1 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
* Lust in the Dust Trad 30m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
*** Thunder Crack Trad 30m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
21 Violent Crumble Trad 15m 1.3. Bluff Minor
Being There Trad 15m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Sneaky Feelings Trad 12m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Welcome Home Trad 15m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
* Jenny Wren Mixed 30m, 1 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
22 Vixen Trad 45m 1.2. Denim Wall
Dead and Buried Trad 30m 1.3. Bluff Minor
Locksmith Trad 42m 1.3. Bluff Minor
* Raison d'Etrier Trad 30m 1.3. Bluff Minor
*** Scorpion Corner Trad 25m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
The Last Laugh Mixed 25m, 1 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
The Cat's Whiskers Trad 30m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
* Anticipation Trad 45m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
Bulger DS Unknown 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
* Unrequited Trad 20m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
23 Handle with Care Trad 8m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Homegrown Mixed 25m, 1 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Nostalgia Mixed 20m, 1 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Piggy in the Middle Mixed 27m, 1 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Dancing Days Trad 45m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
** Kama Sutra Mixed 42m, 2 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
* Quo Vadis DF Trad 8m 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
Blah Blah Blah Mixed 35m, 1 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
*** Despatched Direct Trad 40m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
** Missus Abeat Mixed 30m, 2 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
24 * Allez Mixed 25m, 2 1.1. John's Pinnacle
The Invisible Hand Trad 26m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
* Moving Pictures Trad 15m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Tahini Trad 10m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
*** Despatched Mixed 40m, 2 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
25 I'll Nail You Trad 17m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
Let Me Cry Trad 30m 1.1. John's Pinnacle
* Imagination Trad 20m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Modern Lovers Mixed 15m, 1 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
** New Diocese Trad 30m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
* Lust Unknown 60m, 5 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
** Station to Station Mixed 30m, 2 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
26 Atomic Fusion Mixed 25m, 3 1.1. John's Pinnacle
** Concise Exercise Mixed 35m, 5 1.2. Denim Wall
** Denim Mixed 45m, 2 1.2. Denim Wall
See You Round Trad 20m 1.2. Denim Wall
Imagination DS Mixed 8m, 1 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
*** Anxiety Neurosis Mixed 40m, 4 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
** Bounds Mixed 35m, 2 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
* Holy Moses Trad 40m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
New Diocese Direct Finish Unknown 30m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
Very Anxious Trad 20m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
Recent Theft Unknown 20m, 1 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
* The Prow Mixed 30m, 6 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
The Year of Loving Dangerously Mixed 30m, 4 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
Veneer Sport 15m, 4 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
27 ** London Calling Mixed 30m, 3 1.2. Denim Wall
Taylor Made Mixed 30m, 4 1.5.1. Bluff Major East Face
Anxiety Neurosis Original Line Unknown 20m, 2 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
*** FinaI Departure Mixed 30m, 5 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
** Requited Unknown 35m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
28 *** Final Departure Direct Finish Trad 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
* On the Prowl Sport 20m 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
** Required Sport 15m, 3 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
29 ** Balance of Power Mixed 30m, 5 1.2. Denim Wall
30 * Stop-Motion Trad 20m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Leaps Trad 35m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
** Leaps and Bounds Trad 35m 1.5.2. Bluff Major North Face
** Expired Unknown 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
31 ** Balance of Power Direct Finish Mixed 30m, 7 1.2. Denim Wall
? Imagination LHF Trad 10m 1.4. Flinders Lane Area
Nick White bolt line Unknown 1.5.3. Bluff Major West Face
-- ** Boston's Climb Trad 30m 1.3. Bluff Minor
M3 Inquisition Aid 20m, 1 1.4. Flinders Lane Area