Crag Guide for Bluffs

Allez

Tough crack R of arete to small roof at 4m. There's a BR on the lip and another up higher, it's wise to stick-clip the first.

Start: Start in the middle of the east face of the pinnacle (which looks over Ali's and Fang Buttress).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Dave Fearnley, 1982

As for H to BR then trend L to roof, BR on lip, then up middle of face with high BR.

Start: Start as for H.

FA: Martin Grulich, 1986

Up to BR then into crack which takes you R around the corner.

Start: Start at the arete just R of 'Allez'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Ian Anger, 1980

Up the juggy wall.

Start: Start on the north face of John's pinnacle, close to 'Denim' Wall.

FA: John Fahey, Ted Batty, Chris Baxter, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson, 1965

Stick clip bolt, veer R, then back L. Apparently has a fragile undercling.

Start: Start on the west face of the Pinnacle.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up S for 4m, then traverse L to brief ramp (BR). Up middle of black wall.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1986

Hand traverse R to shallow corner on R side of arete, and up it to slopy finish.

Start: Start just left of the SW arete of the pinnacle.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, 1967

Small roof to stance then L and up a grey streak just R of 'Shoadee'.

Start: Start down R of 'Shoadee'.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1985

Shalimar

Tough start then veer L into a short groove which is just L of the centre of the face. Finish R.

Start: Start 1.5m L of the SE arete (i.e., start 3.5m L of Allez).

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Straight up to the overhangs highest point. From ledge finish up juggy wall. No pro.

Start: 'Arete' 2m right of 'Nostalgia'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

From the ground climb up to thin R leaning and L facing flake and continue up to ledge. from this join groove which is shared with 'Shalimar' and finish up left. Spaced wires.

Start: Start 4m left of 'Let Me Cry'.

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Start: \"Start variant 2m right left of 'Let Me Cry'\" - whatever that means!

FA: Patrick Alseby. Summer, 1998

Start: Start at the L end of 'Denim' Wall.

1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up 'Denim' for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child, 1976

Concise Exercise

Sustained.

Start: Start 12m up L from the start of 'Denim', part way up 'Vixen' but access via ledge.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Johnston, 1988

Denim

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore, Clive Parker (aid), 1968

London Calling

Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to BR, diagonally R to 2nd BR, then trend L to 3rd BR (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux). Nathan Hoette linked the start of 'Balance of Power' into 'London Calling' in Nov. 2004, which is 29* and called Berlin Calling (if you think link-ups deserve their own name).

Start: Start 1.5m R of 'Denim'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

Balance of Power

Very bouldery past the first bolt then continuous past 4 more bolts, then finish off to the right where Concise Excercises finishes (no anchor).

Start: Start R of LC.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

Balance of Power Direct Finish

Originally given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

Start: Start as for BoP.

FA: Nathan Hoette,

Very tough at the grade.

Start: Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba\'s Cave.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

Bluff Minor

Start: Start by going R from Ali Baba\'s Cave, and scrambling up to a ledge below the southeast face of 'Bluff Minor', looking over the Pines.

1. 10m (12) Unprotected start then up to ledge.

2. 35m (-) 'Steep' to ledge, L onto block, up mossy wall, then easily to belay under headwall.

3. 10m (-) Up to the summit. Good luck with getting back down!

FA: Rob Taylor, Reg Williams, 1965

Climb up the vague weakness on crap rock with no pro.

Start: Start 2m R of the north arete of 'Bluff Minor' (this is just opposite TKO on Bluff Major).

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, 1977

Boston's Climb

Take a massive leap across the chasm onto the east face of 'Bluff Major', with only a small sloping foothold to aim for. Now climb the arete.

Start: Start on top of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Peter Jackson, 1960s, 2000

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn (alt), 1980

Raison d'Etrier

Start: Start on the ledge R of 'Locksmith' (which is also the start of pitch 2 of Vixen).

1. 10m (22) Crack through roof

2. 20m (22) Mantle at 5m then delicate wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

Start just R of Rd\'E, and as for 'Vixen' pitch 2.

1. 10m (22) Up face and roof as for p2 of 'Vixen' then move L to belay.

2. 20m (22) Step L, and then up as directly as you can, about 1.5m L of pitch 2 of Rd'E.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb, 1981

FA: Mark Moorhead, Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (pitch 1 only), 1981

FFA: Kim Carrigan, Chris SHepherd, 1982

Chimney out above the 'Keyhole' towards 'Central Gully', then move around arete onto the south face of 'Bluff Minor', which is easy but exposed, to bag the summit.

Start: Start at the top of TK, at the south side of the slot.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

A corner and small roof, with fiddly pro.

Start: Start above the north end of Ali Baba's cave, at the east arete of 'Bluff Minor'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1980

Thin corner with a bolt.

Start: Start 1.5m R of SF.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Glenn Tempest, 2000

Start: Start 1m R of ML.

1. 15m (23) Bridge up a gap, then the seam with a piton.

2. 15m (21) You can either squirm up the back of the wide crack, or hand traverse the lip of the roof to the R arete and then up that.

3. 15m (22) Go R a few metres then take the fingers crack through the roof.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham (Young later added p3 on), 1979

Short crack, pocket, go left, up.

Start: Start 3m R of DD.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1981

The big roof goes on rurps and a bolt, and is the last unfreed aid climb at 'Arapiles'. Dave Jones has spent some time on it and says it will go at about 32, so help yourself to the FFA.

Start: Start above 'Tahini', 6m L of 'Aristocrat' (which is described in the 'Bluff Major' section).

FA: Dave Lia, 1978

Over the bulge on funny spike holds and onwards.

Start: Start at the anchor above 'Inquisition'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jim van Gelder, Rod Young, 1979

Step R to the next crack, through the roof, then stay L of the arete above.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

Go R for 6m from the belay, up a crack then the wall R of the arete, trendng R then L.

Start: Start as for CD.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

Aristocrat

Climb the chimney/corner. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, directly beneath the gap which separates 'Bluff Minor' and 'Bluff Major'.

FA: John Moore, Phillip Stranger, 1966

Easily up corner to a ledge, then step L and pull through roof to boldly clip a BR. Now a bulge. Walk 30m R and rap off the slings above 'Scorpion Corner'.

Start: Start on Flinders Lane, 4m R of the major cleft between 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor' (the cleft itself being 'Aristocrat' (18) which is described under the 'Bluff Minor' area).

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, 1981

The foul thrutchy chimney.

Start: Start at the far L end of the ledge.

The R-curving crack. Awkward - but you've got to get up to 'Blockbuster' Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

Start: Start just R of A.

FA: Unknown, 2000

The face, leading into I near the top.

Start: Start 2m R of I.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1992

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

FA: Roland and Anne Pauligk, 1966

Moving Pictures

From the start of SDS do a committing traverse out R then up to fixed wire. Now R and up arete.

Start: Start as for SDS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

Scorpion Corner

A low roof then into the beautiful corner. The gear is adequate but it's critical that you get certain pieces just right as they are a little spaced at times.

Start: Start at the R facing corner, directly below 'Scorpion'.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Ed Neve, 1974

The unprotected face L of Imagination's finishing crack.

Start: Start as for I.

FA: Chris Peisker, 2000

Imagination

Up SC for 3m then head R to bridging stance, and R again to the crack which is just L of the arete. Traverse L to the anchor above SC.

Start: Start as for SC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

Fixed wire and BR to join the original.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Kim Carrigan,

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris O'Brien, 1975

Blockbuster

The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position.

FA: , 1964

Straight up to bulge, step R, up to ledge. Now the small corner up the great headwall (small wires).

Start: Start as for W.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood, 1993

Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney.

Start: Start R of B.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, ANdrew Smith, 1966

The major chimney R of 'Blockbuster' and L of 'Quo Vadis'.

Start: Start R of W.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman, 1973

Jenny Wren

Traverse out R to arete and up it past a crap BR. You can optionally step R for a rest in QV.

Start: Start as for BB.

FA: Mike Stone, Mike Law, Chris Baxter, 1976

Quo Vadis DF

From halfway along the curved crack of QV, go straight up then finish L.

Start: Start as for QV.

FA: Simon Mentz, Stuart Williams, Jared McCulloch, 1990

Quo Vadis

Some tough moves off the ground past a good cam then a crappy bolt, then follow the fantastic R-curving crack all the way.

Start: Start 4m L of S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, 1968

Up GtAT for a few metres then straight up the line of bolts into the finish of QV.

Start: Start as for GtAT.

FA: Nick White, Andy Pollitt, 1990

Goodbye To All That

Bumped up to 2 stars now that the dangerous start has been fixed. This is a good way to approach the elegant upper sections of 'Scorpion' or 'Kama Sutra', if their overhung trench starts don't appeal.

Start: Start 2m L of S.

1. 15m (20) Tough thin crack for 5m (FH added w/ permission March 2011) then traverse R across 'Scorpion' to belay as for 'Kama Sutra' (2 rusty carrots).

2. 15m (19) Finish up the excellent second pitch of 'Kama Sutra', with 2 FHs up high.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman, 1988

Scorpion

A great adventure that you will savour for many years.

Start: Start on the edge of the yawning void at the far right end of the ledge.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, John Moore with two points of aid., 1966

Kama Sutra

Start: Start as for S. You can also approach by traversing in from the R, from the base of 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

1. 20m (23) Thrutch and thrash through the offwidth roof R of the 'Scorpion' chimney-roof. Belay at 2 rusty carrots over the lip.

2. 15m (19) A great pitch up the corner then the face past 2 FHs (new in 2010, replacing manky original carrots). You might wish to sample this pitch independently of the "delights" of the first pitch, by doing 'Goodbye' to All That.

Sounds like it might be serious, or maybe it's just that Louise was having a go at Kim's psyche. Who knows.

Start: Start down L of AN.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Anxiety Neurosis

Start: Start under the R side of the low overhang on the N arete of 'Bluff Major'.

1. 20m (26) Head out left past a piton and a high bolt, then step down and left to arete and onwards to ledge.

2. 20m (24) Great pitch up the arete past a few bolts, go L at the top.

As for AN but follow the original aid line and don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery.

Start: Start as for AN.

Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads.

Start: Start as for 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

FA: Davey Jones, 1998

Holy Moses

Up the face just L of the arete (the arete being p2 of AN). Then join a sickle with a fixed wire. Sparse pro.

Start: Start at the first belay of AN.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1981

Anticipation

Start: Start as for 'New Diocese'.

1. 25m (22) Up ND for 6m then traverse miles left above the roofs to belay as for 'Anxiety Neurosis'.

2. 20m (22) Step L and climb a thin seam which is just R of pitch 2 of 'Kama Sutra', and just L of 'Holy Moses'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1981

Bounds

Follow 'Anticipation' towards AN, as far as a ledge with a bolt. Now go straight up disconnected seams to a bolt then step L to bulging crack. Needs plenty of #3 RPs.

Start: Start as for 'New Diocese'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Geoff Weigand, 1984

New Diocese

Up to the top of the flake then step down and go L, and up a seam with tough moves into a R-leaning sickle. This line actually joins 'Preservative Added' about here, but next you need to trend L up the steep headwall.

Start: Start between 'Anxiety Neurosis' and 'Missing Link', where there is a short flake above a low roof.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, 1981

Up ND but instead of trending R go up then L, boldly.

Start: Start as for ND.

FA: Roland Foster, Philby, 1984

Preservative Added

An extremely rare case of Kevin aborting a ground up trad route in order to resort to a bolt placed on rap. But then again he was probably about 12 at the time so we'll excuse him this time.

Start: Start as for ML.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Jim Grellis, John Chapman, 1975

Missing Link Direct Finish

After the initial traverse, go straight up the whole way, finishing 5m R of the capping boulder.

Start: Start as for ML.

FA: Ross Cayley, Richard Chin, 1986

Missing Link

The low traverse makes it essential to use double ropes if you wish to avoid groundfall potential. After that the gear becomes more heartening, and the climbing is great.

Start: Start in the middle of the West face of 'Bluff Major', where the ground is at it's highest point.

FA: Reg Williams, Peter Jackson, Chris Dewhirst (1 aid piton), 1965

Climb the RH line, descend the LH line!

Start: Start on the slabby wall opposite 'Missing Link'.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1965

A pretty awesome bit of rock which sees no action since a bolt pulled out.

Start: Start L of 'Station to Station'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

The Prow

As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh, 1994

Station to Station

Up to strenno corner (BR), then R onto ledge shared with TC. Up past mashie (ignoring rurp out left), traverse L to crack and up it, then L and up face past BR.

Start: Start 2m L of TC.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeff Lamb (starting up TC), 1980

FinaI Departure

Up StS until it hits the arete then move R and up past 3 more bolts.

Start: Start as for StS.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Final Departure Direct Finish

Straightens out the top section of the original, making it much better.

FA: Zac Vertrees,

Thunder Crack

Wander up the crack to the top.

Start: Start under the obvious main crack on the L side of the S face of 'Bluff Major'.

FA: Ian Guild, Mike Stone, 1965

Despatched

Groove past bolt to stance. Move R to next bolt then go up until you're under the roof. Now go 8m R and down a bit to a rap station. Old schoolers can top out, everyone else can take the easy option and rap off.

Start: Start just R of TC.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece (starting up TC), 1980

Missus Abeat

Up 'Despatched' to it's first traverse. From here, traverse R all the way to 'Bulger'. Take heaps of RPs.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece, 1980

Traverse R along the break to 'Bulger'.

Start: Start at the base of TC.

FA: Matt Taylor, John Chapman, 1976

Slimg groove with 2 bolts, then L onto ledge. Now over roof (BR) and follow faint groove up R to next roof (BR), and then join 'Despatched'.

Start: Start down R of D.

FA: Nick White, Kelly Lenglet, 1991

The unclimbed line of bolts.

FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000

Climb the face left of 'Unrequited' passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt.

Start: Start 3m left of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

Unrequited

Crack to pocket, R to jug, up to break. The pro is not great.

Start: Start 15m down R of TC.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan, 1978

Requited

Straight up the awesome headwall above 'Unrequited' past bolts, to the 'Despatched' lower-off.

Start: Start at the top of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Required

A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps?

Start: Start just R of 'Unrequited'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman,

Expired

FA: Nathan Hoette,

Bouldery past the bolt.

Start: Start 5m R of U.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

Lust

Start: Start as for RT.

1. 30m (23) Up RT to it's bolt then step R and up runout face. Belay at stance just L of 'Bulger' p2.

2. 30m (25) Up past 3 bolts to technical corner. Now back L past bolt onto the airy arete. The bit past the last bolt can be done as a grade 20 LHF to 'Bulger'.

FA: Simon Mentz, Louise Shepherd, 1991

Bulger

Start: Start down R from RT.

1. 30m (-) Traverse R then up pedestal, then go up R to an easy corner to a ledge.

2. 30m (15) The steep corner crack, with airy hand jamming.

FA: Reg Williams, Chris Baxter, 1965

The steep weakness with a desperate exit.

Start: Start 4m R of B.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1980

As for 'The Keyhole' then take the steep crack 3m L of 'The Keyhole'. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start: Start as for 'Keyhole'.

FA: Ed Neve, Chris Baxter, 1974

If you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien, 1975

The Keyhole

Start about 50m uphill from John\'s Pinnacle, under the obvious cleft in the south face of the 'Bluffs' which divides 'Bluff Major' and 'Bluff Minor'. Up 4m juggy wall, go R underneath roof for 5m, then thrash up the obvious slot. Exit to the north onto 'Blockbuster' Ledge.

As for TK then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join 'Bulger'. Finish up it.

Start: Start as for 'The Keyhole' (which is described on the 'Bluff Minor' page and is the major cleft on the south face of the 'Bluffs' dividing 'Bluff Major' from Bluff Minor).

FA: Keith Lockwood, Halvard Andersen-Dalheim, 1984