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Description:© (willmonks)

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in the 80's - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear.

Start: Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) 'Steep' thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968

  • First Free Ascent: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Location:  

Located in Bluffs approx:
Long/Lat: 141.844832,-36.757515

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

26 Community registered grade
26 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
26 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
26 ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 77%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

stuffed tired crux desperate hard good fun fall runout steep rest mantle fingers traverse

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