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Description:© (koala)

The name is quite misleading as it is not a "direct start" to 'Scorpion' but is actually quite a way left and is climbed completely independently. It is a good way to get to the 'Blockbuster' Ledge though. Considered by some to be a bit of a sandbag, but I guess it is just an old fashioned grade 17.

Start: Start 10m R of I.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Roland & Anne Pauligk, 4 Sep 1966


Located in Bluffs approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757515,141.844832

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
17 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
17 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
17 * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 54%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux tough pumped tired strenuous sandbag difficult hard good super great exciting cool nice scary fall tricky rest reachy interesting awkward sloper technical layback weird short face easy jamming crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Scorpion Direct Start (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.