Main Wall All trad climbing22 routes in cliff
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Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Chossy crack then overhang.
Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.
FA: Norm Osborne, Ed Briner, 1970
Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.
Start: Start 8m R of SS.
FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson, Sue Magoo, 1983
The deep crack.
Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.
FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967
The major corner, facing the second cave.
Start: Start 3m R of RC.
FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975
Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.
Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.
FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda, Emil