Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Description

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
3 Bullet Buttress Trad 20m

Pleasant.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith and Maurice Leslie, 1967

2
9 Holdup Line Trad 20m

Very nice.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

4
11 Stage Coach Trad 20m

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for LB.

Start: Start just R of HL.

FA: Ceri Law, Geraldine Thompson, 1981

5
11 Working Class Hero Trad 20m

Short chimney then finish as for SC.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law, Ian Wilson, 1980

6
10 Long Bow Trad 20m

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WCH.

FA: Ed Briner, Norm Osborne, 1970

7
11 Ckup Trad 20m

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

8
18 Lost Gold Trad 28m

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell

9
14 * Ckinell Trad 28m

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

10
12 Ckinothe Trad 52m

Long traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Ckinell'.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

11
25 R * Repo Man Trad 25m

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Start beneath L side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, Jon Muir, 1988

12
22 R Cricket Bats in a Box Trad 25m

Poor pro. The R side of the cave to a sickle flake, then L.

Start: Start below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

13
9 Cave Climb Trad 30m

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for CBiaB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

14
12 Horse Drawn Trad 20m

Wall and overhang.

Start: Start 5m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, 1980

15
13 Sexless Sue Trad 20m

Chossy crack then overhang.

Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Norm Osborne, Ed Briner, 1970

16

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.

Start: Start 8m R of SS.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson, Sue Magoo, 1983

17

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of RC.

FA: Unknown, 2000

18
6 Revolver Crack Trad 20m

The deep crack.

Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

19
14 to 15 Hangman Trad 25m

As for RC then head R up thin crack. Good rock, exciting finish.

Start: Start as for RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

20

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: Start 3m R of RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

21
12 Big Dog's Cock Trad 28m

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda, Emil

22
10 Six Wet Troopers Trad 28m

The least mossy line.

Start: Start about 3m right of BDC.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil