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Description

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Pleasant.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith & Maurice Leslie, 1967

Very nice.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for LB.

Start: Start just R of HL.

FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981

Short chimney then finish as for SC.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WCH.

FA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Long traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Ckinell'.

FA: Paul Gillis & Norm Osborne, 1970

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Start beneath L side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto 'Repo Man''s lip jugs, then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past 2 FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2017

Poor pro. The R side of the cave to a sickle flake, then L.

Start: Start below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for CBiaB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

Wall and overhang.

Start: Start 5m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Peter Martin & Ian Howe, 1980

Chossy crack then overhang.

Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Norm Osborne & Ed Briner, 1970

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.

Start: Start 8m R of SS.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson & Sue Magoo, 1983

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of RC.

FA: Unknown, 2000

The deep crack.

Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

As for RC then head R up thin crack. Good rock, exciting finish.

Start: Start as for RC.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: Start 3m R of RC.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda & Emil

The least mossy line.

Start: Start about 3m right of BDC.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil

Activity

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