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Description

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach as for 'Front Wall' and walk R around the end of the buttress past the Second Cave. 'Back Wall' is the small cliffline around the descent gully.

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
3 * Trooper Trad 10m

FA: Peter Martin

2
7 * Trooper One Trad 10m

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

3
13 * Trooper Two Trad 10m

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

4
6 * Trooper Three Trad 10m

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

5
2 Cartridge Arete Trad 10m

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

6
6 * Cartridge Chimney Trad 10m

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

7
7 * Dead Ned Trad 10m

A nice little line. A route description would be nice though.

FA: Unknown, 2000

8

Seeing the original description of Orange Crush is 0.5m L of Cobb & Co., we'll claim the fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot for this route. Continue directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Vicki Kavanagh, 2015

9
15 * Orange Crush Trad 10m

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990

10

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill ANdrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

11
10 ** Tullah's Pleased Trad 12m

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

FFA: Michael Salt, 2015

12
7 * Tullah's Tease Trad 12m

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

13
16 * Rubbery Under Arms Trad 12m

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

Activity

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