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Description

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Approach as for 'Front Wall' and walk R around the end of the buttress past the Second Cave. 'Back Wall' is the small cliffline around the descent gully.

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
3 Trooper Trad 10m

FA: Peter Martin

2
7 Trooper One Trad 10m

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

3
15 Trooper Two Trad 10m

Straight up the line above the cave.

Start: Start 1m R of T1 at the teeny cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

4
6 Trooper Three Trad 10m

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

5
2 Cartridge Arete Trad 10m

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

6
6 Cartridge Chimney Trad 10m

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

7
7 Dead Ned Trad 10m

A nice little line. A route description would be nice though.

FA: Unknown, 2000

8
15 Orange Crush Trad 10m

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott, Oscar Poll, 1990

9
6 Cobb & Co Trad 20m

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill ANdrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

10
7 Tullah's Tease Trad 12m

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

11
15 Rubbery Under Arms Trad 12m

Bingo wings!

Start: Start 3m R of TT.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986