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Description

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach as for 'Front Wall' and walk R around the end of the buttress past the Second Cave. 'Back Wall' is the small cliffline around the descent gully.

© (koala)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Peter Martin

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

FA: Bill Andrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds

FA: Unknown, 2000

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott & Oscar Poll, 1990

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill ANdrews & Julie Tulloch, 1975

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

Activity

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