A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Bushranger Bluff 33 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.845969, -36.766948

Description:

The outcrop at Arapiles' far south-eastern end. A popular area for beginners.

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach:

Drive along the summit road and the park on the right where the sign points to 'Melville's Cave'. From there it's a short, easy walk to the crag.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

1.1. Main Wall 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846038, -36.766935

Description:

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Bullet Buttress

Pleasant.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Keith and Maurice Leslie, 1967

3Trad 20m
2 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Start just R of BB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9Trad 20m
3 Holdup Line Direct Finish 14Trad 20m
4 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for LB.

Start: Start just R of HL.

FA: Ceri Law, Geraldine Thompson, 1981

11Trad 20m
5 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for SC.

Start: Start just R of SC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law, Ian Wilson, 1980

11Trad 20m
6 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: Start 1m R of WCH.

FA: Ed Briner, Norm Osborne, 1970

10Trad 20m
7 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994

11Trad 20m
8 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell

18Trad 28m
9 * Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

14Trad 28m
10 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: Start as for 'Ckinell'.

FA: Paul Gillis, Norm Osborne, 1970

12Trad 52m
11 * Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Start beneath L side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher, Jon Muir, 1988

25 RTrad 25m
12 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The R side of the cave to a sickle flake, then L.

Start: Start below the R side of Melville's Cave.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little, 1988

22 RTrad 25m
13 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for CBiaB.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

9Trad 30m
14 Horse Drawn

Wall and overhang.

Start: Start 5m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Peter Martin, Ian Howe, 1980

12Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Sexless Sue

Chossy crack then overhang.

Start: Start 10m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Norm Osborne, Ed Briner, 1970

13Trad 20m
16 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack on L.

Start: Start 8m R of SS.

FA: Andrew Corlass, James Falla, Teddy Bear Thompson, Sue Magoo, 1983

13Trad 20m
17 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of RC.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7Trad 20m
18 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start: Start 20m R of Melville's Cave.

FA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967

6Trad 20m
19 Hangman

As for RC then head R up thin crack. Good rock, exciting finish.

Start: Start as for RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

14 to 15Trad 25m
20 The Ghost of Melville

The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: Start 3m R of RC.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

15Trad 25m
21 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by TGoM...but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: Start R of 'Hangman'.

FA: Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Merilyn Reynolds, Michael Hartman, Rhonda, Emil

12Trad 28m
22 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: Start about 3m right of BDC.

FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Steve Reynolds, Rhonda & Emil

10Trad 28m

1.2. Back Wall 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Long/Lat: 141.846350, -36.766569

Description:

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Approach:© (koala)

Approach as for 'Front Wall' and walk R around the end of the buttress past the Second Cave. 'Back Wall' is the small cliffline around the descent gully.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trooper

FA: Peter Martin

3Trad 10m
2 Trooper One

Crack to break, then go 2m R and up crack.

Start: The smooth grey wall just L of the walk-down gully, start 1m L of small cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

7Trad 10m
3 Trooper Two

Straight up the line above the cave.

Start: Start 1m R of T1 at the teeny cave.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

15Trad 10m
4 Trooper Three

The crack with a hard start.

Start: Start on the R side of the grey wall.

FA: Peter Martin, 1981

6Trad 10m
5 Cartridge Arete

Jugs.

Start: Start at the arete R of the walk-down gully.

2Trad 10m
6 Cartridge Chimney

The chimney.

Start: Start just R of CA.

FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

6Trad 10m
7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. A route description would be nice though.

FA: Unknown, 2000

7Trad 10m
8 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: Start 3.5m R of CC.

FA: Tod Truscott, Oscar Poll, 1990

15Trad 10m
9 Cobb & Co

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start: Start 0.5m R of OC.

FA: Bill ANdrews, Julie Tulloch, 1975

6Trad 20m
10 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step R into crack.

Start: Start 5m R of C&C.

FA: John Fisher, 1983

7Trad 12m
11 Rubbery Under Arms

Bingo wings!

Start: Start 3m R of TT.

FA: Michael Creek, 1986

15Trad 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
2 Cartridge Arete Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
3 Bullet Buttress Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Trooper Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
6 Revolver Crack Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Cartridge Chimney Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
Cobb & Co Trad 20m 1.2. Back Wall
Trooper Three Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
7 Little Revolver Crack Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Dead Ned Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
Trooper One Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
Tullah's Tease Trad 12m 1.2. Back Wall
9 Cave Climb Trad 30m 1.1. Main Wall
Holdup Line Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
10 Long Bow Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Six Wet Troopers Trad 28m 1.1. Main Wall
11 Ckup Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Stage Coach Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Working Class Hero Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
12 Big Dog's Cock Trad 28m 1.1. Main Wall
Ckinothe Trad 52m 1.1. Main Wall
Horse Drawn Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
13 Sexless Sue Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
Sue's Crutchless Knickers Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
14 * Ckinell Trad 28m 1.1. Main Wall
Holdup Line Direct Finish Trad 20m 1.1. Main Wall
14 to 15 Hangman Trad 25m 1.1. Main Wall
15 The Ghost of Melville Trad 25m 1.1. Main Wall
Orange Crush Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
Rubbery Under Arms Trad 12m 1.2. Back Wall
Trooper Two Trad 10m 1.2. Back Wall
18 Lost Gold Trad 28m 1.1. Main Wall
22 Cricket Bats in a Box Trad 25m 1.1. Main Wall
25 * Repo Man Trad 25m 1.1. Main Wall