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Description

50m R of Wailing Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
13 Cubbies Climb Trad 10m

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground), late 80s, 2000

2
26 Dogbolter Mixed 10m, 1

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

3
18 R Kapunya Trad 10m

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield, Ann Hurst, 1992

4
16 Watch Dog Trad 10m

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett, Mike Stone, 1978

5
18 Dingo Trad 25m

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, Phillip Stranger, 1966

6
22 R Reservoir Gods Trad 15m

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. The first part of this route was climbed as 'Howling Wolf' Variant Start (18) by Andrew Selby Smith & Stu Holloway on 28/9/96, moving R into HW. Then someone else claimed the same thing as This Ones for you Rob, or something. The finish described here makes it completely independent.

Start: Start: 2m Left of 'Howling Wolf' at the arete.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1997

7
18 ** Howling Wolf Trad 28m

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

FA: Matt Taylor, Rod Young, 1978

8
21 Dog Day Afternoon Mixed 25m, 1

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

FA: Ant Callaghan, James Naylor, 1990

9
18 * Jackal Trad 25m

More wide crack thrashery.

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson, Phillip Stranger, 1966

10
10 Fennel Trad 40m

Probably shorter!

Start: Start just R of J.

FA: Peter Watson, Gabrielle Pellissier, Keith Egerton, Peter Cunningham, 1978

11
15 * Puppy Love Trad 35m

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder, 1978

12
22 Cruel Canine Trad 15m

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy, Rod Young, 1979

13
19 Black Dog Trad 15m

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start: Start just L of HE.

FA: Rod Young, Peter Watson, 2000

14
18 The Hard Ears Trad 13m

The chalked-up orange crack.

Start: Start 10m R of J.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter, Ben Ewald, 1976

15
18 Yelping Pup Trad 12m

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone, Gordon Talbett, 1978

16
10 Grey Wolf Trad 12m

The buttress with an overhang.

Start: Start in the gully R of The Hard Years.

FA: John Chapman, Gerry McPhee, 1979

17
18 Hound Dog Trad 12m

Mini line.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

FA: Andy Reynolds, Simon McRae, 1995

18

Up following edge of slab.

Start: Start: On the left edge of the black slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard, James Falla, 1999

19
14 * Ball Terrier Trad 15m

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of 'Two Dogs of Empiricism'.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1999

20

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, 1999

21
22 R Poop Scoop Trad 8m

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Richard Smith, 1999

22
16 Click my Lit Trad 10m

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

FA: Richard Smith, solo, 1999

23

The grade has been lost due to a formatting glitch on arapiles.net.

Start: Start: The arete between 'Arethusa' and 'Bitch Wank'.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, 1999

24
19 Arethusa Trad 10m

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard, 1999

25
14 Bitch Wank Trad 10m

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1997

26

Line up left end of wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1997

27

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard, 1997

28
16 Felicity's Tongue Trad 10m

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

FA: James Falla, Greg Pritchard, 1999