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Description

50m R of Wailing Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield & Ann Hurst, 1992

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett & Mike Stone, 1978

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. The first part of this route was climbed as 'Howling Wolf' Variant Start (18) by Andrew Selby Smith & Stu Holloway on 28/9/96, moving R into HW. Then someone else claimed the same thing as This Ones for you Rob, or something. The finish described here makes it completely independent.

Start: Start: 2m Left of 'Howling Wolf' at the arete.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between HW and J.

FA: Matt Taylor & Rod Young, 1978

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

FA: Ant Callaghan & James Naylor, 1990

More wide crack thrashery.

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Probably shorter!

Start: Start just R of J.

FA: Peter Watson, Gabrielle Pellissier, Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham, 1978

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1978

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy & Rod Young, 1979

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start: Start just L of HE.

FA: Rod Young & Peter Watson, 2000

The chalked-up orange crack.

Start: Start 10m R of J.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Ben Ewald, 1976

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Gordon Talbett, 1978

The buttress with an overhang.

Start: Start in the gully R of The Hard Years.

FA: John Chapman & Gerry McPhee, 1979

Mini line.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

FA: Andy Reynolds & Simon McRae, 1995

Up following edge of slab.

Start: Start: On the left edge of the black slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of 'Two Dogs of Empiricism'.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

FA: Richard Smith & solo, 1999

The grade has been lost due to a formatting glitch on arapiles.net.

Start: Start: The arete between 'Arethusa' and 'Bitch Wank'.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1999

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Line up left end of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dog Face.