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Description

The orange and grey tower with the scythe shaped slash across the main face (Reaper).

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

Descents: Rap stations have been added (~2003) above 'Reaper' (24m), Berserk (30m), and 'Taste Sensation', courtesy NBF.

© (willmonks)

Descent Notes

Rap stations above Reaper, Berserk and Taste Sensation.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 Beam Me Up Scotty Trad 15m

Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals.

Start: Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of 'Saraband'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

2
22 Charlie Crinkle Trad 15m

A bit harder. Up via small flake then R-ish.

Start: Start 2m R of BMUS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

3
21 Saraband Trad 15m

The LH crack.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Saraband' pinnacle.

FA: John Smart, 1979

4
22 Chaconne Trad 15m

Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete.

Start: Start just R of S.

FA: John Smart, 1979

5
9 Armpit Trad 50m

Up the chimney.

Start: Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

6
24 * Jilted Mixed 15m, 3

Back wall. Approach via 'Skyline Walls', 'Dreadnought Gully' or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam).

FA: Alistair Mark, 1989

7
25 * The Perfect Match Mixed 10m, 3

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.

Start: As for 'Jilted'.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2008

8
23 Andy Warhol Trad 15m

Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L.

Start: Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above 'Armpit'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1982

9
20 The Sting Trad 30m

The overhang and wall R of AW.

Start: Start just R of AW.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

10
21 * In Space Trad 30m

Spectacular.

Start: Start 3m R of TS.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

11
24 * Beserk Trad 35m

Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross 'Reaper' and finish up headwall just right of arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

12
22 *** Reaper Trad 65m

Start: Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face.

  1. 25m (21) The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack.

  2. 30m (22) Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, Chris Dewhirst (p2 only, approached by a long traverse in from the L. Greg Child added p1 in), 1978

13

From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends, move right then up past bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1981

14
22 Girl Germs Trad 40m

From the belay, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above 'Incest' (past bolt) then ignoring common sense head up over bulge to hanging slab and run it out to roof. Now traverse R and finish up 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Shepherd, 1983

15
24 Ultramundane Trad 30m

From the belay, drop down then traverse R across 'Incest' to the first ledge of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

16
25 ** Taste Sensation Trad 65m

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1981

17
22 * Wild Reaper Connection Mixed 65m, 1

From 1st belay of 'Reaper', follow 'Girl Germs' to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory.

FA: Rod Young, Barry Young, 1979

18
20 * Wild Arts Trad 40m
  1. 18m (20) Boulder problem start 2m right of 'Incest'. Boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with 'Reaper' belay.

  2. 22m (19) Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.

FA: Simon Mentz, 1998

19
24 R ** Fine Arts Trad 65m

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

  1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

  2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

  3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey

FA: Barry Young, Chris Stroud (p1 only), 1979

20
25 ** Incest Trad 48m

Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Louise Shepherd, 1983

21
26 * Sisterly and Christally Mixed 40m, 4

Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with 'Wild Reaper Connection' to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Incest'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991

22
19 Wild Oats Trad 70m

Start: Start under the SE arete of the 'Reaper Buttress', 6m L of 'Red Parrot Chasm'.

  1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge.

  2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

  3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut), 1974

23
11 * Red Parrot Chasm Trad 55m

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 2nd Jan

24
26 * Grimstone Trad 35m

Climb 'Reaper' to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on 'Taste Sensation'. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join 'Taste Sensation' at its final crack.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

25
23 * Grim Reaper Trad 35m

A link up of 'Reaper' and the 'Direct Finish'. From near the finish of the 'Reaper' sickle line, go up past 2 bolts to final bolt on 'Reaper Direct Finish'.

FA: Enga Lokey, 2000