Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals.

Start: Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of 'Saraband'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

A bit harder. Up via small flake then R-ish.

Start: Start 2m R of BMUS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

The LH crack.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Saraband' pinnacle.

FA: John Smart, 1979

Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete.

Start: Start just R of S.

FA: John Smart, 1979

Up the chimney.

Start: Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

Jilted

Back wall. Approach via 'Skyline Walls', 'Dreadnought Gully' or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam).

FA: Alistair Mark, 1989

The Perfect Match

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.

Start: As for 'Jilted'.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2008

Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L.

Start: Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above 'Armpit'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1982

The overhang and wall R of AW.

Start: Start just R of AW.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

In Space

Spectacular.

Start: Start 3m R of TS.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

Beserk

Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross 'Reaper' and finish up headwall just right of arete.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

Reaper

Start: Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face.

1. 25m (21) The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack.

2. 30m (22) Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, Chris Dewhirst (p2 only, approached by a long traverse in from the L. Greg Child added p1 in), 1978

Reaper Direct Finish

From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends, move right then up past bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1981

From the belay, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above 'Incest' (past bolt) then ignoring common sense head up over bulge to hanging slab and run it out to roof. Now traverse R and finish up 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Shepherd, 1983

From the belay, drop down then traverse R across 'Incest' to the first ledge of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

Taste Sensation

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1981

Wild Reaper Connection

From 1st belay of 'Reaper', follow 'Girl Germs' to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory.

FA: Rod Young, Barry Young, 1979

Wild Arts

1. 18m (20) Boulder problem start 2m right of 'Incest'. Boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with 'Reaper' belay.

2. 22m (19) Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.

FA: Simon Mentz, 1998

Fine Arts

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey,

FA: Barry Young, Chris Stroud (p1 only), 1979

Incest

Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Louise Shepherd, 1983

Sisterly and Christally

Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with 'Wild Reaper Connection' to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Incest'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991

Wild Oats

Start: Start under the SE arete of the 'Reaper Buttress', 6m L of 'Red Parrot Chasm'.

1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge.

2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut), 1974

Red Parrot Chasm

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1964

Grimstone

Climb 'Reaper' to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on 'Taste Sensation'. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join 'Taste Sensation' at its final crack.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

Grim Reaper

A link up of 'Reaper' and the 'Direct Finish'. From near the finish of the 'Reaper' sickle line, go up past 2 bolts to final bolt on 'Reaper Direct Finish'.

FA: Enga Lokey, 2000