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Table of contents

1. Reaper Buttress 28 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 141.842857, -36.757727


The orange and grey tower with the scythe shaped slash across the main face (Reaper).

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Preludes Area

Access Issues: inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach:© (willmonks)

Descents: Rap stations have been added (~2003) above 'Reaper' (24m), Berserk (30m), and 'Taste Sensation', courtesy NBF.

Descent Notes:

Rap stations above Reaper, Berserk and Taste Sensation.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Beam Me Up Scotty

Take the easiest line up the face via plenty of horizontals.

Start: Start on the nice blob of rock which is uphill and L of 'Saraband'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

22 Trad 15m
2 Charlie Crinkle

A bit harder. Up via small flake then R-ish.

Start: Start 2m R of BMUS.

FA: Mark Moorhead, solo, 1983

22 Trad 15m
3 Saraband

Lou must have been on drugs describing this as "down and left of Reaper". The LH crack on the small pinnacle further uphill from Reaper.

Start: Start on the L side of the 'Saraband' pinnacle.

FA: John Smart, 1979

21 Trad 15m
4 Chaconne

Up the R side of the buttress. The DF up the top crack is reachy 24, the 22 way is to climb the breaks R of the arete.

Start: Start just R of S.

FA: John Smart, 1979

22 Trad 15m
5 Armpit

Up the chimney.

Start: Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dorothy McManus, 1968

9 Trad 50m
6 * Jilted

Back wall. Approach via 'Skyline Walls', 'Dreadnought Gully' or Josie's Climb. Very steep start past bolt then rightwards along lip of roof (BRs) to a tricky exit (Cam or small wire).

FA: Alistair Mark, 1989

24 Mixed 15m, 3
7 * The Perfect Match

Back wall. A mini Slopin' Sleazin'? Unconventional moves up an interesting feature left of 'Jilted'. Start as for that route to its first BR, then head up to 2nd BR and left to the base of unlikely arete. Climb this to good pocket (BR), then continue past undercling to top.

Start: As for 'Jilted'.

FA: Steve Kelly, 2008

25 Mixed 10m, 3
8 Andy Warhol

Tough around roof onto wall and into crackline on L.

Start: Start 2m R of the L arete of the west-facing wall, above 'Armpit'.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1982

23 Trad 15m
9 The Sting

The overhang and wall R of AW.

Start: Start just R of AW.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

20 Trad 30m
10 * In Space


Start: Start 3m R of TS.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

21 Trad 30m
11 * Berserk

Back to the front (main) wall. Up chimney/corner on left end of main wall (Armpit - 11) then access diagonal rampline rightwards past a bolt. Cross 'Reaper' and finish up headwall just right of arete. Bolt needs replacing and route is quite runout.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

24 Trad 35m
12 I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne

If you follow the instruction to Chaconne in Lou's guide, you'll probably find this instead. On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. Up the diagonal seam on R side of the face to hard move onto arete and up. TR'd a DF which is better and slightly harder.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden, 2015

22 Trad 10m
13 Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute

On the small pillar in front of Reaper there's a wall facing the same direction as Reaper Wall. The steep crack on the L side of the buttress. Surprisingly better than it looks, although it does look bloody awful.

FA: Wendy Eden, Douglas Hockly, 2015

18 Trad 10m
14 *** Reaper

Start: Start beneath the major crack in the middle of the face.

  1. 25m (21) The steep crack up to the base of the major sickle crack.

  2. 30m (22) Follow the L-curving sickle crack to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, Chris Dewhirst (p2 only, approached by a long traverse in from the L. Greg Child added p1 in), 1978

22 Trad 65m 2
15 * Reaper Direct Finish

From the cave at the end of the sickle (of Reaper) traverse right and pull over bulge. Follow right leading flake until it ends, move right then up past bolt.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Eddy Ozols, 1981

23 Trad 15m
16 ** Grim Reaper

A link up of 'Reaper' and the 'Direct Finish'. From near the finish of the 'Reaper' sickle line, go up past 2 bolts to final bolt on 'Reaper Direct Finish'. This can also be done as one mega pitch from the ground. the is a rap anchor to the right and a 70m rope will get you back to the ground easily.

FA: Enga Lokey, 2000

23 Trad 35m
17 * Grimstone

Climb 'Reaper' to its crux. Step right at a prominent chalked jug and ooze up the unlikely seam past a FH to gain the upper traverse on 'Taste Sensation'. Step right again and climb the excellent face above passing a second FH to join 'Taste Sensation' at its final crack.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008

26 Trad 35m
18 Girl Germs

From the belay, go up then traverse 4m right into exposed terrain above 'Incest' (past bolt) then ignoring common sense head up over bulge to hanging slab and run it out to roof. Now traverse R and finish up 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Chris Shepherd, 1983

22 Trad 40m
19 ** Taste Sensation

From Reaper's 1st belay, head up 'Reaper' 2nd pitch to where it curves left, then traverse 2m right to below bolt. Pull over bulge and up crack to break. Traverse left along break, then up headwall past bolt, aiming for short crack.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1981

25 Trad 65m
20 *** Taste Sensation Direct Finish

Taste Sensation to the big horizontal, then near the left end of this launch straight up into Grimstone's finish.

25 Trad 30m
21 ** Wild Reaper Connection

From 1st belay of 'Reaper', follow 'Girl Germs' to the roof, then pump up the power to pull the lip and onwards to glory.

FA: Rod Young, Barry Young, 1979

22 Mixed 65m, 1
22 Ultramundane

From the belay, drop down then traverse R across 'Incest' to the first ledge of 'Wild Oats'.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Reaper'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Mark Moorhead, 1983

24 Trad 30m
23 ** Incest

Back at ground level, 2m L of the weakness of Wild Oats. Head up then leftwards to 2 prominent bolts, then left across white marbled rock (crux) into hanging corner. Finish up this to the first belay of 'Reaper'.

Start: Start as for the LH option of 'Wild Oats'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Louise Shepherd, 1983

25 Trad 48m
24 * Sisterly and Christally

Up I to the 2nd bolt, then directly upwards past a bolt and peg to roof (shared with 'Wild Reaper Connection' to the left). Step right and pull through bulge. Easier climbing leads to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Incest'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1991

26 Mixed 40m, 4
25 * Wild Arts
  1. 18m (20) Boulder problem start 2m right of 'Incest'. Boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with 'Reaper' belay.

  2. 22m (19) Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.

FA: Simon Mentz, 1998

20 Trad 40m 2
26 ** Fine Arts

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

  1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

  2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

  3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey

FA: Barry Young, Chris Stroud (p1 only), 1979

24 R Trad 65m 3
27 Wild Oats

Start: Start under the SE arete of the 'Reaper Buttress', 6m L of 'Red Parrot Chasm'.

  1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge. Still quite runout though easier.

  2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

  3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut), 1974

20 Trad 70m 3
28 * Red Parrot Chasm

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 2nd Jan

11 Trad 55m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
9 Armpit Trad 50m
11 * Red Parrot Chasm Trad 55m
18 Non-Saraband Route-like Substitute Trad 10m
20 The Sting Trad 30m
* Wild Arts Trad 40m 2
Wild Oats Trad 70m 3
21 * In Space Trad 30m
Saraband Trad 15m
22 Beam Me Up Scotty Trad 15m
Chaconne Trad 15m
Charlie Crinkle Trad 15m
Girl Germs Trad 40m
I Can't Believe it's not Chaconne Trad 10m
*** Reaper Trad 65m 2
** Wild Reaper Connection Mixed 65m, 1
23 Andy Warhol Trad 15m
** Grim Reaper Trad 35m
* Reaper Direct Finish Trad 15m
24 * Berserk Trad 35m
* Jilted Mixed 15m, 3
Ultramundane Trad 30m
24 R ** Fine Arts Trad 65m 3
25 ** Incest Trad 48m
** Taste Sensation Trad 65m
*** Taste Sensation Direct Finish Trad 30m
* The Perfect Match Mixed 10m, 3
26 * Grimstone Trad 35m
* Sisterly and Christally Mixed 40m, 4