Preludes Wall All trad climbing23 routes in cliff
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The grey wall R of Reaper Buttress.
Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
There is a rap station at the L end of the belay ledge - please don't rap off the pillars which are already too charred by rope burn.The rap anchor is further left than marked in topo. It's also possible to descend by walking R and then going down 'Dreadnought Gully' - but timid folk will want to abseil this way so the new rap station at the L end of the ledge is the way to go.© (koala)
Rap station at the L end of the belay ledge. Or walk R and then down Dreadnought Gully
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)