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Description

The grey wall R of Reaper Buttress.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Approach

There is a rap station at the L end of the belay ledge - please don't rap off the pillars which are already too charred by rope burn.The rap anchor is further left than marked in topo. It's also possible to descend by walking R and then going down 'Dreadnought Gully' - but timid folk will want to abseil this way so the new rap station at the L end of the ledge is the way to go.

© (koala)

Descent Notes

Rap station at the L end of the belay ledge. Or walk R and then down Dreadnought Gully

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
12 Josie's Climb Trad 50m

Up the wide crack, then finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

Start: Start at the left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the 'Reaper Buttress' page).

FA: Josie Ley, late 80s, 2000

2
18 Subliminal Cut Trad 18m

Climb the white streak, then traverse R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars of 'Hercules' ledge.

Start: Start 5m R of the major chimney, 2m R of JC.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1982

3

Trend a bit R to a smooth grey bulge with no pro (the gully just to the R is NOT an escape gully despite appearances). Walk R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars.

Start: Start 1m R of SC.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Michelle Doherty, 1992

4
11 * Transylvania Mixed 60m, 1

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch (incorrectly marked in topo) so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy.

Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning aganst the cliff.

  1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

FA: K, F and T Lockwood

5
12 Native Companion Trad 25m

Up the wall just R of the block, bridging if you like, then the smooth grey walls above.

Start: Start 12m R of SC, just R of the large block leaning against the cliff.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Sonia Jones, 1989

6
16 Mug's Game Trad 27m

Short thin seam and up to ledge.

Start: Start 3m R of the big block.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Eddy Ozols, 1979

7
17 About Face Trad 30m

Up the wall for 8m then step R across cleft, up past small overhang and the unprotected wall to finish.

Start: Start 2m R of MG.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Eddy Ozols, 1979

8
9 Diagonal Crack Trad 35m
9
19 Rosy Shy Trad 35m

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged.

Start: Start 1m R of the major skanky diagonal cleft.

FA: Eddy Ozols, Chris Stroud, 1979

10
20 R Man Shy Trad 35m

Start: Start 2m R of RS.

  1. 25m (20) Boldly up the face to the cave.

  2. 10m (-) Move L and up short face to the Pillars.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

11
11 * Dracula Trad 40m

Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

Start: Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block.

  1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

FA: Chris Baxter, Laurie Beesley, 1965

12
19 Energy Crisis Trad 35m

The wide crack, then the roof and wall.

Start: Start 8m R of D.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Kim Carrigan, 1979

13
13 * Stalagmite Trad 36m

The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr, Rob Taylor, 1966

14
13 Helictite Trad 8m

The overhang above the cave.

Start: Start at the Pillars (i.e. at the top of the previous routes).

FA: Derek Lord, Bruno Zielke, Fred Langenhorst, 1968

15
20 Interlude Trad 35m

Start at the crack between 'Stalagmite' and 'Preludes'. The crack to break, then steep tiny R-facing corner. Continue past R side of prominent nose and take the buttress above. Step L at the ledge to finish up steep crack of 'Stalagmite'

FA: Keith Lockwood, Steve Williams, 1987

16
18 * Preludes Trad 35m

Good tricky and enjoyable crack climbing, but with some questionable rock.

Start: Start at the beginning of the gully, in the gap behind Minstrel Pinnacle.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Rob Taylor, 1967

17
20 R Atrophy Trad 30m

Thin and bold.

Start: Start R of 'Preludes', and directly opposite 'Scourge' (which is on Minstrel Pinnacle).

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd, 1979

18
20 Marginal Era Trad 25m

The rib on the L of the smooth wall, past break, until it eases off. Now traverse R then go up.

Start: Start R of A.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Graham Jones, 1985

19
16 Frankenstein Trad 30m

A worthwhile route with quite fine climbing near the crux.

Start: Start in the overgrown corner crack down and right of the gully, opposite the broken east edge of Minstrel Pinnacle.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Garry Sudholtz, 1968

20
11 Red Parrot Jism Trad 15m

The obvious chimney.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, 1995

21
17 Egg on Your Face Trad 15m

Up onto slab then left into short crack. Up this to top.

Start: Start about five metres right of RPJ.

FA: Hoskins, Pritchard, 1995

22
18 Smeg and the Heads Trad 20m

Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Start: Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, 1995

23

Up wall to break then up more.

Start: Start right of 'Smeg and the Heads' just left of crack.

FA: Smith, Pritchard, Mudie, 1995