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Description

The grey wall R of Reaper Buttress.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Preludes Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

There is a rap station at the L end of the belay ledge - please don't rap off the pillars which are already too charred by rope burn.The rap anchor is further left than marked in topo. It's also possible to descend by walking R and then going down 'Dreadnought Gully' - but timid folk will want to abseil this way so the new rap station at the L end of the ledge is the way to go.

© (koala)

Descent notes

Rap station at the L end of the belay ledge. Or walk R and then down Dreadnought Gully

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Up the wide crack, then finish up the gross wall with no pro, or move L to finish up the chimney.

Start: Start at the left end of the wall, 3m R of the major chimney (Red Parrot Chasm - described on the 'Reaper Buttress' page).

First pitch/rap off point is a little longer than the 25m mentioned in the Arapiles Selected Climbs guidebook. A 60m rope still easily touch ground though.

FA: Josie Ley & late 80s, 2000

Start 5m R of 'Red Parrot Chasm' on the juggy water-washed slab. Climb the white streak to a two bolt lower-off.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 1982

Trend a bit R to a smooth grey bulge with no pro (the gully just to the R is NOT an escape gully despite appearances). Walk R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars.

Start: Start 1m R of SC.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Michelle Doherty, 1992

Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch (incorrectly marked in topo) so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy.

Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning aganst the cliff.

  1. 20m (11) Up crack and bulge then dicky moves past bolt to ledge and bolt anchors.

  2. 40m (10) Steep groove on left then up wall, veering right-wards to finish.

FA: K, F & T Lockwood

Good fun with fairly good protection. Start 12m R of Subliminal Cut, just right of the large block leaning against the cliff, or under the block itself. Up the wall past the right side of the block. Smooth slab, crux, from ledge on top of the block (there is a wire but short people will have to get up to it) then easier ground up line of least resistance to the headwall. Step left and climb diagonally left to the rap anchors.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Sonia Jones, 1989

Short thin seam and up to ledge.

Start: Start 3m R of the big block.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Up the wall for 8m then step R across cleft, up past small overhang and the unprotected wall to finish.

Start: Start 2m R of MG.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Eddy Ozols, 1979

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged.

Start: Start 1m R of the major skanky diagonal cleft.

FA: Eddy Ozols & Chris Stroud, 1979

Start: Start 2m R of RS.

  1. 25m (20) Boldly up the face to the cave.

  2. 10m (-) Move L and up short face to the Pillars.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.

Start: Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block.

  1. 25m (11) A tough start gains the deep crack, which is followed to a ledge.

  2. 15m (8) Wander R along the ledge for a few metres to the next line, and head up this to the Pillars.

FA: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965

The wide crack, then the roof and wall.

Start: Start 8m R of D.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Kim Carrigan, 1979

The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start: Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall.

FA: Jerry Grandage, Daryl Carr & Rob Taylor, 1966

The overhang above the cave.

Start: Start at the Pillars (i.e. at the top of the previous routes).

FA: Derek Lord, Bruno Zielke & Fred Langenhorst, 1968

Recently underwent a major makeover to reveal a very enjoyable pitch. Start at the line between 'Stalagmite' and 'Preludes'. The crack to break, then steep tiny R-facing corner past a bolt. Continue past R side of prominent nose and up the buttress to ledge. Best finish is direct through the pumpy overhang (18), or move over L to finish up much easier crack of 'Stalagmite'

This route has very large loose blocks. Probably not a good choice if you are just leading 18, and maybe worth avoiding altogether.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Williams, 1987

Good tricky and enjoyable crack climbing, but with some questionable rock.

Start: Start at the beginning of the gully, in the gap behind Minstrel Pinnacle.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Rob Taylor, 1967

Start 1m R of 'Preludes'. Up to small stance. A couple of commiting moves lead up to a bolt, then a slippery crux gains a shallow R-facing corner to rap anchors on the ledge. Lower off.

Alternatively at the top go up the finger crack of Stalagmite for a few moves and then right up the headwall. It feels a bit loose up there so take care and warn people below.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 2015

Thin and bold.

Start: Start R of 'Preludes', and directly opposite 'Scourge' (which is on Minstrel Pinnacle).

FA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979

The rib on the L of the smooth wall, past break, until it eases off. Now traverse R then go up.

Start: Start R of A.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Graham Jones, 1985

Start on the featured arête just right of the overgrown corner crack down and right of the gully, opposite the broken east edge of Minstrel Pinnacle. Easy climbing leads to a distinct crux off a ledge. More easy climbing follows. Rap rings situated on the far L side of the ledge.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Garry Sudholtz, 1968

The obvious chimney.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Up onto slab then left into short crack. Up this to top.

Start: Start about five metres right of RPJ.

FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995

Up wall on left through steep bulge.

Start: Start around corner from 'Frankenstein'.

FA: Smith & Pritchard, 1995

Up wall to break then up more.

Start: Start right of 'Smeg and the Heads' just left of crack.

FA: Smith, Pritchard & Mudie, 1995

Activity

Check out what is happening in Preludes Wall.