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Description

The detached outcrop in front of Preludes Wall.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Descent Notes

Rap from slings.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
10 The Minstrel Trad 20m

Take the easiest way up the face.

Start: Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully).

FA: John Moore, 25th Apr

2
19 X * E6 on grit Trad 15m

Bold. Don't forget the mattress.

Start: Start: Right of 'Wild Rose' at obvious crack.

FA: Richard Smith, Greg Pritchard & and Jon Bassindale, 1999

3
24 R Wild Rose Trad 15m

Climb the little crack which starts on the lip of the roof. Gain it from the left. The fixed wire and slings at the start of the crack are long gone and it is probably quite bold to place your own on the lead.

Start: Start on the west face (the face looking up Central Gully).

FA: Craig Peacock, 1982

4
22 Kinky Kupple Mixed 17m, 1

The recent addition of a bolt has seen this route suddenly become a lot more popular. The short arete and wall (bolt) just R of 'Scourge'.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1984

5
20 R Scourge Trad 20m

The central line with poor pro at first.

Start: Start in the chasm, in the middle of the north face of Minstrel Pinnacle.

FA: Andrew Thomson & Mike Stone, 1978

6
19 Pestilence Mixed 20m, 2

Straightens out Jon Muir's old route which climbed mostly off to the L. Starts immediately L of 'Scourge'. A difficult pull or two leads up past two bolts and finishes directly up the seam above and up the middle of the final headwall.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 2015

7

Directly up the wall.

Start: Start L of 'Scourge', and just R of the arete.

FA: Jon Muir & Brigitte Muir, 1985

8
21 R The Chancre Trad 17m

The start is desperate and poorly protected.

Start: Start on the L side of the arete, L of TGFoF.

FA: Peter Lindorff & Peter Watson, 1978

9
18 The Curse Trad 17m

Not bad.

Start: Start 4m L of TC on the east face of the pinnacle (which faces camp).

FA: Mike Stone & Andrew Thomson, 1978