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Description

The prominent buttress above Preludes Wall, between Skyline Wall and Dreadnought Gully. Wind Wall is the western side.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Scramble of the L wall of Dreadnought Gully then under a big chockstone.

Descent Notes

Down the gully L of Wind Wall.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 Streaming Trad 30m

Up past 'Oh Bondage' there's a tight gully with a slender buttress in it.

Start: Start 2m R of the main crack.

FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran, 1983

2
18 * Oh Bondage Trad 15m

A great little face route reminiscent of Blue Mts sandstone. A few intricate gear placements (interspersed by obvious ones) keeps the pulse up along the way.

Start: Left side of Wind Wall.

FA: Tony Dignan, 1979

3

Up OB for 3m, R (thread), up to break, R-ish over bulge.

Start: Start as for 'Oh Bondage'.

FA: Martin Haupt, 1988

4

Carrigans variant. Basically a totally different route to the original. From the good crimps just after the 2nd bolt cut back left diagonally up the wall to wire placements and the last bit of Not Like a Hurricane.

FA: Kim Carrigan early 80s.

5
25 R *** Ride Like the Wind Trad 25m

Moorhead had placed the first bolt but not been able to get through the next sequence. He talked Yosemite Stonemaster Mike Graham into rapping the line (which he did blindfolded!) - then he went for it on lead. The last half of the route was established onsight in an amazing effort. Micro crimping past two bolts leads to the mental aspect of the route - which quite arguably is the crux. Big fall potential off virtually half height gear if you lose it at the top grade 23 slab move. Employ a good belayer.

FA: Mike Graham, 1980

6

As for RLTW, but when you hit the top break, gear up for a final boulder problem! Heartbreaking, mainly because if you fall off the hard finish (well protected), you have to go back down and re-climb the the real business! Established at grade 27 - you might wonder why it was ever downgraded.

Start: As for RLTW.

FA: Gordon Poulteney, 1992

7
25 X * Mr Fukuoka Trad 25m

PR, BR, R into 'Windsong' to small roof. Then L a bit and over bulge.

Start: Start R of RLtW.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Jeff Shrimpton, Phil Begg, 1990

8
25 X * Breezin' Trad 25m

Arguably 'Arapiles' boldest route. Technically easier than RLTW but as stated within Gordy's 330 of the Best Guide "a 20 metre fall is a distinct possibility". Given that this fall will have you penduluming into the base of 'Los Endos', it's also a lot more serious than the latter. A technical face climb with the main crux well protected, but which stores a nightmare sequence of intricate footwork and a last minute slab rockover just where you don't need it (the last 3 metres). Use extreme caution.

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

FA: Mike Graham, 1981

9
26 X ** Redrum Mixed 25m, 1

Start: Start as for 'Windsong'.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009

10
24 R ** Windsong Mixed 25m, 1

BR to flake (sling it). L to groove and up it to small roof. The original (23) wimped out here by following jugs R around arete. The first direct finish (24) increased quality and boldness by staying just L of the 'Los Endos' arete. The second direct finish (24, shown in the topo) is even better and maybe not as bold.

Start: Start at end of ledge 10m R of RLtW.

FA: Simey and someone else added the second Direct Finish shown sometime in the 90s.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Greg Child (23 original, 1981), 1981

FA: Grant Farquhar, Clare Carolan (first Direct Finish), 1990

11
22 *** Los Endos Trad 40m

A bold journey through technical terrain and good but spaced gear. Some blind moves add to the fun, as does a particularly hollow sounding flake at half height. Outrageous exposure and a brilliant finish polish off this class act.

Start: Takes the right arete of Wind Wall.

FA: Greg Child, 1978

12
23 R * Los Finales Trad 25m

R on suss rock, up short crack, R below bulge, then straight up to roof and beyond.

Start: Start at the same spot as LE.

FA: Mark Moorhead, John Middendorf, 1981

13
21 * Suckin' Snag Trad 39m

Follow break across Starless to finish up arete.

Start: Start below LE.

FA: Evan Bieske, John Pearson, 1987

14

The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE.

Start: Start R of SS.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1979

15

The short crack leading to the end of LF's initial traverse. Place a wire with a stick before starting.

Start: Start 2m R of LEDS.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Jon Muir, 1981

16
26 * El Mega Pump Mixed 35m, 5

An unwitting retrobolt of the first section of GSTQ.

Start: Start as for GSTQ.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

17
24 * God Save the Queen Mixed 40m, 2

Was very bold until the death flake departed and the retrobolts arrived.

Start: Start 4m R of LFDS.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Paul Tattersall, 1982

18
24 Queen of Hearts Trad 15m

Climb a little tree to gain a jug with a fixed wire. Now head R and over a bulge.

Start: Start 1.5m R of GSTQ.

FA: Rod Young, Ant Prehn, 1984

19
23 Warhead Mixed 15m, 1

Climb the shallow groove with a bolt.

Start: Start just L of SaBB.

FA: And Prehn, Rod Young, 1984

20

Start: Start at the major line jagging it\'s way up the buttress.

  1. 30m (22) Tough jamming up first groove to gain jugs, then go L to a belay.

  2. 40m (22) Tiring jamming leads up L of the major bulge to a roof.

FA: Greg Child, Andrew Thomson, 1976

21
22 Cranking for Jesus Mixed 8m, 2

Head up L from the terrace past 2 bolts. Descend by downclimbing the crack to the R.

Start: Start R of SaBB just above the top of 'Dreadnought Gully', at a terrace on the R.

FA: Simon Mentz, Rebecca McCowen, Paul Christie, 1993

22
24 The Real Thing Mixed 15m, 2

Very bouldery past 2 BRs, then L to flake.

Start: This route is actually located on the top section of 'Preludes Wall', but is included in this section as it is approached from above if done separately (but it's just as easy to approach it by climbing 'Subliminal Cut' on 'Preludes' Wall). Anyway, from the base of Wind Wall, head SW towards the top of 'Reaper Buttress', to find the top of a hanging gully. Scramble down the gully to find the bolts.

FA: Martin Tatton, Doug Hockley, Richard Henderson, 1992