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Description

A narrow chasm, cool in summer and sheltered from rain.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

From the Central Gully track, take on of the first tracks off to the R through boulders and then L along the base of the buttress.

Descent Notes

Rap stations at the top of the first and second pitches of Dreadnought, and the first pitch of No Exit.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 R * Jeepers Mixed 8m, 1

Out the roof on the L, past a hidden BR. Very bold getting to bucket, around which you need to place a long sling for your next piece of pro.

Start: This one is on the L side of the gully, opposite all the other routes. You need to scramble up the wall opposite 'Dreadnought' to find it.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

2
24 Preciousss Mixed 15m, 1

High up on the 'Dreadnought' Buttress. Approach as for 'Short Time'. Start at the gully 1.5m right of an arete and left of 'Short Time'. Take the overhang, up to small roof, BR, then L to arete. Over bulge, then up until you find a bollard good enough to rap off.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1984

3
19 Short Time Trad 15m

Takes the southwest arete of the 'Dreadnought Buttress', from a ledge above 'Intergalactic Space Patrol'. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of 'Cranking for Jesus'. Was mistakenly originally transcribed into ACA as being the southeast arete of Starless Buttress. Climb the arete.

FA: Peter Mills, Glenn Tempest, 1981

4

Used to be described under 'Starless Buttress', as it starts from the very top of 'Dreadnought Gully' unlike most of the other routes here. But the reality is it's in the 'Dreadnought Gully' sector, considering that 'Dreadnought Gully' routes finish to the left, the right, and even link into this! It's not had a great reputation but it's a great looking piece of rock so maybe it's worth doing.

Start: Start at the top of 'Dreadnought Gully'.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir, 1981

5
26 R End of the Earth Mixed 25m, 2

Originally established at 25 by taking a breather on the half-height ledge on the opposite side of the gully!

Start: Start by scrambling up the wall opposite 'Dreadnought', to a big chockstone.

FA: Lincoln Shepherd, Chris Shepherd, Philby, 1991

FA: Done without stepping off by Dave Jones., 1998

6

The original version of 'Last Temptation'. Climb the short arete, then up to roof. Break right over the hanging slab and join 'Great Temptation' at its redpoint crux (also the point where the ledge is nearest). Finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Wythe, 2000

7
29 R ** The Last Temptation Mixed 30m, 1

Up EotE to bolt then up bulging line between EotE and GT to join Intergalactic Space Control near the top. Watch your back.

Start: Start as for EotE.

FA: Stuart Wyithe, 1996

8
26 R ** Great Temptation Trad 25m

Access via the chockstone halfway up the grade 4 access wall - or from the top of 'Dreadnought'.

Hand traverse into the base of the very overhung crack. Up this, being careful of the opposite wall. A good belayer essential.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

9
26 * Deliciously Deranged Mixed 25m, 1

Starts on the upper terrace above 'Dreadnought' pitch 1. Climbs the impossible looking overhung face to gain the crack weakness and hanging corner 3m right of 'Great Temptation'. Extremely hard dynamic start past a bolt leads to pockets up and right, then traverse back left into hanging corner to a rest. Onwards up the fantastic corner to top.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

10
25 Happy as Larry Mixed 18m, 4

Line of bolts 2 metres left of Dreadnaught, finishing by veering right that climb.

FA: Matthew Brooks. Mids, 1990

11
24 ** Dreadnought Trad 54m

Start: Start at the back of 'Dreadnought Gully', 1m L of a \'D\' chipped in the rock.

  1. 18m (24) Launch up steep crack weakness right of bolted route (Happy As Larry) to double bolt belay.

  2. 16m (23) Continue up marbled bulging crack above. This pitch often seeps but is still climbable.

  3. 20m (-) The corner to the top is part of the original route but not really worth doing. If you do, you might need to fashion some sort of abseil to get off the top.

FA: Peter McKeand, Andrew Thomson, 1970

12

Main left-trending diagonal, beginning with a reachy dynamic start, then trending left across jugs to a cruxy exit. Sustained.

FA: Andrew Thomson, 1976

13

Start on the L of DV then cross it and finish on it's right.

Start: Start just L of DV.

FA: Jon Muir, solo, 1984

14
26 * Cecil B De Mille Mixed 20m, 1

Start as for 'Dreadnought Variant' but then stretch right to jugs, bolt and unique pillar pinch, finishing up and slightly left via a thin crux section. Powerful.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

15

Start 1m right of 'Dreadnought Variant' and climb up past small pocket to slopey horizontal breaks (old piton). Join 'No Exit' near the top, and finish as for that route.

FA: Stuart Williams, 1991

16
26 Forced Entry Mixed 15m, 1

Start 1m left of 'No Exit' and boulder leftwards into line (FH). Hard moves lead up, then back right into 'No Exit'. Finish as for that route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1985

17
25 ** No Exit Mixed 65m, 1

Start: Start 10m R of 'Dreadnought'.

  1. 15m (25) Extremely bouldery face leads to crack finish. Beware of the name!

  2. 30m (23) Sensational. Thin corner, L on slab, up thin crack, then diagonally L. Rap off the top of 'Dreadnought' p2.

FA: Chris Peisker & Tony Dignan did p1, 1979

FA: Kim Carrigan & Kevin Lindorff added p2, 1979

18
25 Stage Right Mixed 15m, 2

Unattractive crimps past 2 bolts to jug, then face with piton.

Start: Start 2m R of NE.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Jon Muir (the independent start described was added by Martin Scheel)., 1984

19

Bouldery start to bolt, then the groove.

Start: Start 1m L of M.

FA: Simon Vallings, 1984

20
23 * Mainstream Trad 75m

Start: Start 8m R of NE.

  1. 25m (22) Hard boulder problem start leading to more moderate crack weakness. At top of crack, veer left up nose below arete.

  2. 8m (21) The flake on the arete to the next ledge.

  3. 20m (-) Step L onto the front of the arete, spectacular over bulge, then easily to ledge.

  4. 22m (-) Easily up. It's also possible (and maybe better) to simply traverse R and find a bollard to rap off.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Mark Moorhead, Jim Van Gelder (p2 & p3 previously done by Moorhead and Ross Donaldson on), 1979

21
14 R Castelle Trad 45m

Start: Start by climbing to the first belay of Lawrence (which is on 'Dunes' Buttress).

  1. 25m (14) Bad rock and bad pro. From the ferny cave at Lawrence's first belay, traverse L, then go up diagonally L for 10m to ledge.

  2. 20m (-) Steeply to ledge, step R off boulder, then traverse back L and up to the summit of 'Dreadnought' pinnacle.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, 1966