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Description

The prominent buttress immediately L of Major Mitchell Gully.

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Approach

Approach by walking left of 'Fang Buttress' and then up along the base of 'Morfydd' Wall.

© (koala)

Descent Notes

Scramble over the summit to find the road the head L until you find the sign-posted track down Central Gully.

It is also possible to cross the ridge and downclimb to Missing Link then descend via Ali's.

Either way it's a bit of an epic but DO NOT attempt the rap down Major Mitchell Gully. The pin is old and dodgy.

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Areas

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Name
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Height
Grades
3
3
53m

Routes

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Grade Route
2
21 R Withnail and I Mixed 25m, 1

Tackles the hanging corner on the left side of a narrow grey/black buttress (Cow Cragg) immediately left of Lawrence's second pitch.

Start: Start at belay/rap station near the "Lawrence" traverse.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Gerry Narkowicz, 2009

3
22 R Uncle Monty Mixed 25m, 1

Start as for Withnail and I. Climb the steep grey wall above to gain the arete proper of Cow Cragg passing a FH on its left (if you move right here it is about grade 20 and still worthwhile). Continue up the arete to join 'Marwood' at the top.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Gerry Narkowicz, 2009

4
21 R Marwood Trad 25m

Gain the hanging corner as for Withnail and I. Continue up the obvious crack/seam in the wall above.

FA: Ingvar Lidman, Gerry Narkowicz, 2009

5
13 * Lawrence Trad 100m

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start: Start between 'Dreadnought' Buttress and 'Dunes Buttress' at a shrubby rib.

  1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

  2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

  3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

FA: Peter Jackson, Reg Williams, 1965

6
21 R Tassie Devil Trad 45m

A varied route which parallels Lawrence to its right and features some interesting rock flutings.

The cruxes on this and the variation are runout on average gear and the rock is a little fragile in places.

Start: Start at the first belay of Lawrence

FA: Gerry Narcowicz, Ingvar Lidman, 2009

7
26 X Forbidden Fruit Mixed 55m, 2

The shenanigans on the first ascent suggest they were certainly consuming something forbidden...

Start: Start 2m L of Semi-detached.

  1. 25m (23) Up wall, traverse right to gain diagonal flake sytem and follow this to ledge. There is protection but it won't stop a groundfall from the crux.

  2. 20m (26) Scary face with fragile rock to crux past 2 bolts. Apparently you need double thumb sprags.

FA: James Falla, Dave Mudie (alt), Kieran Loughran, Richard Smith, late 80s, 1988

8
22 R Semi-detached Trad 35m

Serious start but finish is worthless. This original probe at the 'Forbidden Fruit' face got Kieran an invition onto the FF team.

Start: Start 4m L of 'Saracen'.

  1. 25m (22) Tough poorly protected start to dubious flake-block, then up R to jugs. Easier runout section up to overlap, over bulge and move L to join 'Saracen'. Belay at good ledge on L.

  2. 10m (22) The crack on the R side of the yellow wall, through the bulge then R to easy finish and go across to rap anchor for 'Sandpiper'.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Maureen Gallagher, 1987

9
16 Saracen Trad 110m

The 3rd pitch is good but the other pitches don't get a good press. If Lawrence rates a star then this should get 2. It's best to run pitches 2 and 3 together, then you get two good, long pitches followed by an easy pitch off.

Start: Start below and L of the big overhangs, on the lower section of 'Dunes Buttress', at a layback crack.

  1. 35m (16) Up the corner for 6m, then swing up L past overhang onto slab. Trend L into bushy territory, then R into dirty groove to Arab's 3rd belay.

  2. 12m (-) Step L and up to small stance. Best to keep going up the next pitch rather than belay here.

  3. 33m (16) Go 2m R then up excellent grey crack. (A grade 8 variant established by the three Gledhills on 14/1/68 goes straight up the deep crack into the chimney on pitch 4).

  4. 34m (-) Ramble onwards.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger, Chris Baxter, 1967

10
24 * Top Cat Trad 35m

Veer up R from the corner and easily over small roof. Tough moves to a rest on the R, then out the main roof being wary of a captive loose block. Rap off as for 'Sandpiper'.

Start: Start as for 'Saracen'.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Louise Shepherd (the top roof (22) was first done by Kevin Lindorff and Peter Jacoband named Scaredy Cat), 1979

11

Start at a large chimney at the foot of the buttress, then traverse left until at the base of a short overhanging wall easily noted by large white jug, crux, then once past this, up on difficult and sharp layaways through small roof, then arriving at the rap station (26m).

Start: The overhung arete at the base of 'Dunes' buttress, up the offwidth chimney on the right.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, 1968

12
25 Soft Sell Trad 15m

The roof jam crack.

Start: Start under the small lump of rock with a flat top, up and R from the start of 'Sandpiper'.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

13
20 * Scarecrow Trad 28m

Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of 'Saracen' and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of 'Saracen' but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described.

Start: Start at Arab's second belay.

FA: Chris Baxter, Russell Crow, 1984

14
16 * Arab Trad 110m

Start: 2m L of 'Dunes' is a R facing corner. Start by scrambling (or roping) up this to the top of the huge flake.

  1. 25m (16) Grey slab to strenuous chalked wall, then head L up stepped ramp to a belay ledge on the arete. (The original avoided the overlap by going way off R - this better direct way was done by Keith Lockwood and Geoff Schirmer 4/2/78).

  2. 10m (-) Step L then up over worrisome blocks and belay under orange corner.

  3. 15m (16) Up orange corner then R under arching roof to arete.

  4. 25m (-) Up the line then L onto wall and belay under steep little crack (which is pitch 5 of Dunes).

  5. 32m (-) Traverse L, ignore scrubby crack, and take the balancy grey slab then join the final corner of 'Dunes'.

FA: Peter Jackson, Bob Bull, 1965

15
21 R * Live Footage Trad 35m

Louise's guide gave it a glowing review but no stars, so we'll whack one on.

Start: Start at Arab's 3rd belay.

  1. 15m (-) Climb the arete R of Arab's corner to a ledge.

  2. 20m (21) Continue up the undercut arete, which gets rather runout.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Collie, 1982

16
12 * Dunes Trad 120m

The original version.

Start: Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right).

  1. 36m (-) Up the corner then trend R up slab to the base of a short chimney facing R into the gully.

  2. 6m (-) Up the chimney. (In Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman skipped the pitch 2 chimney by going straight up from the p1 slabs, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (grade 9)).

  3. 40m (9) Traverse L, step down, and go a bit further L. One tricky move up then continue straight up easy wall to the Oasis (the big ledge between 2 huge boulders).

  4. 27m (-) Traverse L to ledge, then up the short steep crack with good jugs, and up the clean corner above.

  5. 10m (-) Short corner then easy finish.

FA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, 1965

17
13 * Dunes Direct Trad 100m

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start: Tuck under the boulder left of 'Eskimo Nell' - One metre right of the start of Arab.

  1. 30m (13)

  2. 25m (11)

  3. 22m (10)

  4. 23m (12)

FA: Greg Pritchard, Simon Mentz - mid's, 1990

18
18 Penal Confinement Trad 37m

Up the steep jam-crack through the V-cleft lip, then nice flake/crack to small ledge. Step L and up short corner.

Start: Start on the L side of the Oasis (which is 3-4 pitches up 'Dunes' or Eskimo Nell).

FA: Mike Law, Kim Carrigan, 1975

19

The usual offering from these two! The ugly offwidth roof/corner on the L side of the boulder. Finish up EN pitch 5.

Start: Start on the Oasis on the L side of the big boulder which 'Eskimo Nell' pitch 4 crawls under.

FA: Rod Young, Jeremy Boreham, 1977

20
10 *** Eskimo Nell Trad 110m

Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.

FA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter, Laurie Beesley, 1968

21
13 Eskimo Nell RHS Trad 30m

Thrutch up the diagonal crack in the left wall of the gully to EN's first belay.

Start: Start around R from 'Eskimo Nell' in the gully.

FA: Clive Parker, Graham Squire, 1966

22

Start: Start as for ENRHS.

  1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then head further up R to belay below a corner.

  2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

  3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

FA: Bill Andrews, Dave McLean, Barry Edwards, 1977

23
21 Scribble Trad 12m

The steep flakes up the middle of the short orange wall just R of 'Dunes' pitch 2.

Start: Start at the first belay of 'Dunes'.

FA: Rod Young, Chris Shepherd, 1982

24

The short steep arete 3m R of 'Scribble'. Off ledge into short crack, up to PR, then steep jugs.

Start: Start at Dunes' first belay.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Rod Young, 1982

25
23 Icecream Man Trad 20m

Go 8m R uphill from 'Kays Third Marriage'. Take the hand crack through the short roof.

Start: Start at Dunes' first belay.

FA: Rod Young, Tim Chapman, 1981

26

Go R under roof to juggy exit.

Start: Start on the ledge above 'Icecream Man'.

FA: Ant Prehn, Rod Young, 1983

27
19 R Ground Rush Trad 40m

Start and finish have poor pro. Straight up (was originally brushed very clean but may have grown back). Finish up shallow corner L of an orange nose.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Brontosaurus' at L end of ledge.

FA: Damien Hansen, Tim McCormack, 1989

28
18 Brontosaurus Trad 40m

Up the middle of the wall to short blank corner, then up and L and short crack.

Start: Start under the middle of the grubby wall.

FA: Rod Young, Tim Chapman, 1981