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Description

Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main 'Reaper Buttress'.

Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting. Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.

© (willmonks)

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

10 Jun 1968

First Ascent: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 10 Jun 1968

Location

Lat/Long: -36.75773, 141.84286

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

13 Community registered grade
9 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
9 ACA Route Register

Seasonality

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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 33% from 1 ratings

Tick types

Onsight

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Activity

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