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Description:© (willmonks)

Start: Start as for 'Wild Oats'.

  1. 30m (21) Climb directly to the ledge from the RH start, not much pro.

  2. 15m (23) Traverse L a few metres then up to R-curving flake which leads to ledge.

  3. 20m (23) Walk R then climb the steep East face of the buttress, just L of the arete.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Chris Shepherd & Cathy Blamey

  • First Ascent: Barry Young & Chris Stroud (p1 only), 1979


Located in Reaper Buttress approx:
Long/Lat: 141.842857,-36.757727

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

24 R Community registered grade
23 R ** ** ACA Route Register
23 ** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
24 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good face

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Check out what is happening on Fine Arts (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.