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Description:© (willmonks)

Start: Start under the SE arete of the 'Reaper Buttress', 6m L of 'Red Parrot Chasm'.

  1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge. Still quite runout though easier.

  2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

  3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Bowman (with an aid nut), 16 Nov 1974


Located in Reaper Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757727,141.842857

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 Community registered grade
19 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
19 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
20 * ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

hard good nice scary runout slippery bad rest epic traverse

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