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Description:© (willmonks)

The monumental chimney. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy.

Start: Start on the R side of 'Reaper Buttress'.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).


Route History:

  • First Ascent: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 2 Jan 1964


Located in Reaper Buttress approx:
Lat/Long: -36.757727,141.842857

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

11 Community registered grade
11 * ACA Route Register
11 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
11 Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 58%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

fantastic good beautiful enjoyable cool nice scary runout easy crap chimney crack

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Check out what is happening on Red Parrot Chasm (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.