Details needed

This crag does not have approach information!

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

© (Breezy)

Description

The routes are described clockwise, starting at 'The Ferrets are Coming' which is on the far left, facing South.

There is a nasty weed on the R near the bouldering - please try not to spread the seeds.

© (Breezy)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 Pot Boiler Trad 12m

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland, Keith Lockwood, 1984

2
17 Tonic Trad 12m

Start: As for 'Pot Boiler' to horizontal break then right and up.

FA: Lockwood, Sutherland, 1984

3

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers.

Start: Start 7m left of CC.

FA: Peter Watson, Mike Law

4
9 Craddock Crack Trad 13m

Start: Start at the left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

5

Up 3m, L across CC to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m L of arete.

Start: Start 1m right of CC.

FA: Auston Rotheram, Tom Greenwood, 1984

6
10 Kristies Finger Trad 12m

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

7
2 Sunny Gully Trad 12m

Hard start, then easy :)

FA: Unknown, 2000

9
7 Marshmallow Sea Trad 14m

Move L to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. The undercut direct start (see 10a in topo) is a bit harder.

Start: Start as for DG.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ken Taylor, 1975

10
2 Deck Gully Trad 12m

Start: Start at the rightmost deep gully facing the road.

FA: Unknown, 2000

11
20 * Brit Milah Mixed 12m, 2

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above Deck Games. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at top of Deck gully at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey, Steve Wilson, 2011

12
27 All Decked Out Mixed 12m, 2

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: Start as for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

13
25 Deck Games Mixed 13m, 1

Very appealing rock.

Start: Start under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

14
26 New Wave Winos Trad 15m

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

15
24 * Scorpio Trad

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect :) )

FA: Ingvar Lidman

16
23 * Sagittarian Mixed 12m, 2

Steep crack to break, then stay R of bolts (2?). A direct finish has recently been added by Ingvar Lidman (shown as 7a in the topo), it's grade 26 from memory but the write-up is not handy so it may be harder or easier.

Start: Start 6m left of 'Sickle'.

FA: Peter Millington, Adrian Jones --, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

17

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

FA: Unknown, 2014

18
22 New Wave Wanks Trad 15m

Up SK, then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

Start: Start as for 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Phil Bigg, Chris Shepherd, 1983

19
19 R Slip Knot Trad 12m

Poorly protected wall just R of Sagittarian's bolts.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

20
7 Taya Trad 12m

Good beginner's lead between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

Start: Start just L of the plaque and R of the small overhang.

FA: Taya Cross, Glenn Mostert, 1997

21
4 Hammer Trad 12m

Up 'Sickle' then step L to short ramp up shallow corner.

Start: Start as for 'Sickle'.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

22
9 Sickle Trad 13m

Chimney, then crack above the plaque.

Start: Start just L of MM.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

23
16 R * Marmot's Mall Trad 12m

Marked as being "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Little Thor'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst, Kevin Sheehy, 1966

24
20 R *** Little Thor Trad 12m

Climb the R facing flake/corner. Don't trust the piton(s) (if they're there). Also the wires have a habit of unzipping mid-crux as you move R at the roof - double ropes are recommended.

Start: Start on the L side of the blank northwest facing wall.

FA: Ian Guild, Peter Smith --, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis, Joe Friend, 1974

25

After the crux on LT, continue straight up instead of scuttling off L. Take a bolt bracket.

Start: Start as for LT.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

26
29 ** Steps Ahead Sport 18m, 4

Sustained crimpiness. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

27
26 ** Hit the Deck Mixed 18m, 4

As for LS then follow bolt ladder up L. Finish direct.

Start: Start as for LS.

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

28
24 * Look Sharp Mixed 15m, 1

Short crack, BR, PR, trend R.

Start: Start 5m L of P.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Dignan, 1979

29
22 A New Toy Mixed 15m, 1

Crack to roof, BR.

Start: 2m left of P.

FA: Stuart Hickson, Allan Wilkie, 1982

30
24 * Remembrance Day Mixed 20m, 2

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.

Start: Start as for P.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

31
22 Problematic Trad 10m

The short bulging crack.

Start: Start on the right side of the northwest-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

32
17 Hog Jowls Trad 20m

Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

Start: Start L of TP.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Phil Wilkins, 1996

33
13 Sir George Trad 20m

Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

Start: Start left of TP.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

34
5 The Pleb Trad 27m

The chimney on the southwest side of the outcrop.

Start: Start L of the descent track.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.