Details needed

This crag does not have approach information!

Could you describe the approach to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'Edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Summary

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

© (Breezy)

Description

The routes are described clockwise, starting at 'The Ferrets are Coming' which is on the far left, facing South.

There is a nasty weed on the R near the bouldering - please try not to spread the seeds.

© (Breezy)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers.

Start: Start 7m left of CC.

FA: Peter Watson, Mike Law

2
9 Craddock Crack Trad 13m

Start: Start at the left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

3

Up 3m, L across CC to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m L of arete.

Start: Start 1m right of CC.

FA: Auston Rotheram, Tom Greenwood, 1984

4
10 Kristies Finger Trad 12m

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

5
2 Sunny Gully Trad 12m

Hard start, then easy :)

FA: Unknown, 2000

7
7 Marshmallow Sea Trad 14m

Move L to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. The undercut direct start (see 10a in topo) is a bit harder.

Start: Start as for DG.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Ken Taylor, 1975

8
2 Deck Gully Trad 12m

Start: Start at the rightmost deep gully facing the road.

FA: Unknown, 2000

9
20 * Brit Milah Mixed 12m, 2

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above Deck Games. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at top of Deck gully at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey, Steve Wilson, 2011

10
25 Deck Games Mixed 13m, 1

Very appealing rock.

Start: Start under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

11
24 * Scorpio Trad

FA: Ingvar Lidman

12
23 * Sagittarian Mixed 12m, 2

Steep crack to break, then stay R of bolts (2?). A direct finish has recently been added by Ingvar Lidman (shown as 7a in the topo), it's grade 26 from memory but the write-up is not handy so it may be harder or easier.

Start: Start 6m left of 'Sickle'.

FA: Peter Millington, Adrian Jones --, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

13
13 Sir George Trad 20m

Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

Start: Start left of TP.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

14
5 The Pleb Trad 27m

The chimney on the southwest side of the outcrop.

Start: Start L of the descent track.

FA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Smith, 1966

15
17 Tonic Trad 12m

Start: As for 'Pot Boiler' to horizontal break then right and up.

FA: Lockwood, Sutherland, 1984

16
16 Pot Boiler Trad 12m

R up vague ramp then up.

Start: Start 8m left of TFaC, below a rock step.

FA: Bruce Sutherland, Keith Lockwood, 1984

17
22 New Wave Wanks Trad 15m

Up SK, then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

Start: Start as for 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Phil Bigg, Chris Shepherd, 1983

18
19 R Slip Knot Trad 12m

Poorly protected wall just R of Sagittarian's bolts.

Start: Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian'.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law, Mike Stone, 1977

19
7 Taya Trad 12m

Good beginner's lead between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

Start: Start just L of the plaque and R of the small overhang.

FA: Taya Cross, Glenn Mostert, 1997

20
4 Hammer Trad 12m

Up 'Sickle' then step L to short ramp up shallow corner.

Start: Start as for 'Sickle'.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

21
9 Sickle Trad 13m

Chimney, then crack above the plaque.

Start: Start just L of MM.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

22
16 R * Marmot's Mall Trad 12m

Marked as being "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst, Kevin Sheehy, 1966

23
20 R *** Little Thor Trad 12m

Climb the R facing flake/corner. Don't trust the piton(s) (if they're there). Also the wires have a habit of unzipping mid-crux as you move R at the roof - double ropes are recommended.

Start: Start on the L side of the blank northwest facing wall.

FA: Ian Guild, Peter Smith --, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis, Joe Friend, 1974

24
29 ** Steps Ahead Mixed 18m, 4

Crimpy. Take brackets.

Start: Start 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

25
26 ** Hit the Deck Mixed 18m, 4

As for LS then follow bolt ladder up L. Finish direct.

Start: Start as for LS.

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

26
24 * Look Sharp Mixed 15m, 1

Short crack, BR, PR, trend R.

Start: Start 5m L of P.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Tony Dignan, 1979

27
22 A New Toy Mixed 15m, 1

Crack to roof, BR.

Start: 2m left of P.

FA: Stuart Hickson, Allan Wilkie, 1982

28
24 * Remembrance Day Mixed 20m, 2

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.

Start: Start as for P.

FA: Chris Shepherd, Kim Carrigan, 1982

29
22 Problematic Trad 10m

The short bulging crack.

Start: Start on the right side of the northwest-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Chris Baxter, 1979

30
Gordy's route Mixed 12m, 2

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'. Name and grade TBA.

Start: Start as for 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

31

After the crux on LT, continue straight up instead of scuttling off L. Take a bolt bracket.

Start: Start as for LT.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

32
17 Hog Jowls Trad 20m

Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

Start: Start L of TP.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Phil Wilkins, 1996

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.