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Summary

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

© (Breezy)

Description

The routes are described clockwise, starting at 'The Ferrets are Coming' which is on the far left, facing South.

There is a nasty weed on the R near the bouldering - please try not to spread the seeds.

© (Breezy)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
16 Pot Boiler Trad 12m

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

FA: Bruce Sutherland & Keith Lockwood, 1984

2
17 Tonic Trad 12m

Start: As for 'Pot Boiler' to horizontal break then right and up.

FA: Lockwood & Sutherland, 1984

3

Harder than it looks and fiddly to protect. Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Line 7m left of 'Craddock Crack'. .

FA: Peter Watson & Mike Law

4
9 * Craddock Crack Trad 13m

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

5

Start 1m right of 'Craddock Crack'. Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack'. to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete.

FA: Auston Rotheram & Tom Greenwood, 1984

6
10 Kristies Finger Trad 12m

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

FA: Mark Thomas & Kristie O'Brien, 2005

7
2 * Sunny Gully Trad 12m

Hard start, then easy

FA: Unknown, 2000

9
7 Marshmallow Sea Trad 14m

Start as for 'Deck Gully'. Move L to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road. The undercut direct start is a bit harder.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ken Taylor, 1975

10
2 Deck Gully Trad 12m

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

FA: Unknown, 2000

11
20 Brit Milah Mixed 12m, 2

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above Deck Games. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt. Start at top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on 'All Decked Out' you get to the front of the block. Up and belay.

FA: Mark Wood, Ben Storey & Steve Wilson, 2011

12
27 All Decked Out Mixed 12m, 2

Up nice little face, trending left past 2 FH, from start of 'Deck Games'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, 2000

13
25 Deck Games Mixed 13m, 1

Very appealing rock.

Start: Start under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

14
26 New Wave Winos Trad 15m

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

FA: Mike Law, 1983

15
24 ** Scorpio Trad

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect )

FA: Ingvar Lidman

16
23 ** Sagittarian Mixed 12m, 2

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past bolts (2?).

FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones --, 1969

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

17

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

FA: Unknown, 2014

18
22 New Wave Wanks Trad 15m

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

FA: Phil Bigg & Chris Shepherd, 1983

19
19 R * Slip Knot Trad 12m

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977

20
7 Taya Trad 12m

Good beginner's lead. Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

FA: Taya Cross & Glenn Mostert, 1997

21
4 * Hammer Trad 12m

Great beginner's route. Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner.

FA: Doug Hatt, 1964

22
9 * Sickle Trad 13m 4

Obvious wide crack on north-west side of Dec Crag, left of the smooth wall. You can't get lost.

FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965

23
16 R * Marmot's Mall Trad 12m

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966

24
20 R *** Little Thor Trad 12m

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped. Climb the right-facing flake/corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith --, 1965

FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

25

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

FA: Toshihiko Hijakata, 1988

26
29 * Steps Ahead Sport 18m, 4

Sustained crimpiness. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984

27
26 ** Hit the Deck Sport 18m, 4

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984

28
24 * Look Sharp Mixed 15m, 2

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979

29
22 * A New Toy Mixed 15m, 1

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982

30
24 * Remembrance Day Mixed 20m, 2

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.

Start: Start as for P.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982

31
22 * Problematic Trad 10m

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979

32
17 Hog Jowls Trad 20m

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996

33
13 Sir George Trad 20m

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

FA: John Fisher, 1984

34
5 * The Pleb Trad 27m

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966

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