Declaration Crag Mostly trad climbing34 routes in crag
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Access issues inherited from Arapiles
Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.
Ethic inherited from Arapiles
Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.
Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.
Do not chip the rock.
Look after the park.
Stick to the paths.
Don't disturb the wildlife.
Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.
Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Steep crack to break, then stay R of bolts (2?). A direct finish has recently been added by Ingvar Lidman (shown as 7a in the topo), it's grade 26 from memory but the write-up is not handy so it may be harder or easier.
Start: Start 6m left of 'Sickle'.
FA: Peter Millington & Adrian Jones --, 1969
FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1978
Poorly protected wall just R of Sagittarian's bolts.
Start: Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Mike Law & Mike Stone, 1977
Chimney, then crack above the plaque.
Start: Start just L of MM.
FA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 9th Oct
Marked as being "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in.
Start: Start 3m L of 'Little Thor'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.
FA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966
Climb the R facing flake/corner. Don't trust the piton(s) (if they're there). Also the wires have a habit of unzipping mid-crux as you move R at the roof - double ropes are recommended.
Start: Start on the L side of the blank northwest facing wall.
FA: Ian Guild & Peter Smith --, 10th Sep
FFA: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974
Sustained crimpiness. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.
FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984
Short crack, BR, PR, trend R.
Start: Start 5m L of P.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Tony Dignan, 1979
Crack to roof, BR.
Start: 2m left of P.
FA: Stuart Hickson & Allan Wilkie, 1982
From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), and a slung knob for pro.
Start: Start as for P.
FA: Chris Shepherd & Kim Carrigan, 1982
The short bulging crack.
Start: Start on the right side of the northwest-facing sheer orange wall.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Baxter, 1979
Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.
Start: Start L of TP.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Phil Wilkins, 1996
The chimney on the southwest side of the outcrop.
Start: Start L of the descent track.
FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1966