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Description:

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped. Climb the right-facing flake/corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Guild & Peter Smith --, 1965

  • First Free Ascent: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Location:  

Located in Declaration Crag approx:
Lat/Long: -36.766836,141.851825

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 R Community registered grade
20 OZ Rock
20 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 R ** ** ACA Route Register
20 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 ***Josh LeBlanc
20 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 76%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

solid crux sustained tough pumped struggle difficult hard fun nice fantastic good amazing classy great lovely wicked classic awesome pleasant ripper rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary fall tricky slippery feet rest reachy polished epic roof hands short easy crap bail sharp crack

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Activity Configure

Check out what is happening on Little Thor (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.