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Description:© (Breezy)

Climb the R facing flake/corner. Don't trust the piton(s) (if they're there). Also the wires have a habit of unzipping mid-crux as you move R at the roof - double ropes are recommended.

Start: Start on the L side of the blank northwest facing wall.

Ethic: inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags:

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ian Guild & Peter Smith --, 10th Sep

  • First Free Ascent: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, 1974

Location:  

Located in Declaration Crag approx:
Long/Lat: 141.851825,-36.766836

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

20 R Community registered grade
20 OZ Rock
20 ** Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 R ** ** ACA Route Register
20 ** RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 *** Josh LeBlanc
20 *** A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 76%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained difficult tough hard fun nice fantastic good amazing great lovely wicked classic awesome pleasant ripper rad perfect brilliant exciting scary fall tricky feet rest reachy polished roof hands short easy crap bail sharp crack

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