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Description

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

Ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Route history

10 Sep 2065

First Ascent: Ian Guild & Peter Smith, 10 Sep 2065

Aug 1974

First Free Ascent: Ian Lewis & Joe Friend, Aug 1974

Location

Lat/Long: -36.76684, 141.85182

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

20 R Community registered grade
20 OZ Rock
20 RockGUIDE: Victoria
20 R ** ACA Route Register
20 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
20 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
20 Josh LeBlanc

Seasonality

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F
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A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 76% from 280 ratings

Tick types

Onsight
Flash
Red point
Pink point
Hang dog

Comment keywords

solid crux sustained tough pumped struggle strenuous difficult hard fun nice fantastic good amazing classy great lovely wicked classic awesome pleasant beautiful ripper rad perfect brilliant exciting enjoyable scary fall tricky slippery feet rest reachy polished epic roof hands short easy crap bail sharp crack

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Activity

Check out what is happening on Little Thor (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.